?*o ■%"

'^^■

«« V

n\

£s\

^v.

O^ /]i

,J

J L.*"'

M\

'V

(It

T R A V E L S

THROUGH THE

INFERIOR PARTS

OF

AMERICA

SERIES OF LETTERS.

■^vRRSaSS^R^"^

E Y AN OFFICE R.

Tl 8^5 «» TJ? EtTTOlf T«lyra KtyAq Vi'iMV l/VV J

DemOSTH. OLXKttf,

VOL. I, ■ ', .11

LONDON: Printed for WILLIAM LANE, Leatknhall- Street.

M DCCL^kXXIX.

■Dar,,

V, I

h^\

TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE

EARL OF HARRINGTON,

VISCOUNT PETERSHAM,

AND

COLONEL OF THE TWENTY-NINTH- REGIMENT OF FOOT.

MY LORD,

JJAVING had the honor to

i'erve under your Lordihip,

it^ was my fortune, in common

with all who were in the fame

--rr>^ fltua-

^

• 80OI)

QpOOl

in)

lituation, to become attached to your Lordiliip by perfonal obligations; and it is a confe- quence which I hope will be thought equally natural, that I fliould take this occalion to ac- knowledge them.

In laying before the Public un- common fcenes of difficulty, dan- ger and diftrcfs, I might be further tempted, had I talents for the undertaking, to particularize the unremitting fortitude, which, in feveral of the m.oft trying in- ftances, diftinguifhed your Lord- fhip's condud: : but examples of bravery, though none can be more confpicuous than thofe your Lord- fhip fhewed, abound in every clafs of a Briiifh army : more rare

tliough

( iii )

though not lefs worthy of imita- tion, is the fort of attachment your Lordlhip has always fhewn to your corps.

It has been your praife, my Lord, when but of the field, to forego the pleafures which high rank, fortune, youth, and accomplifh- ments opened to your view, and to brave the feverity of climate, through tedious v/inters, in mere military fellowfhip.

In retired quarters, you found the care of your men to be at once the true preparation for your country's fervice, and a moft gratifying enjoyment to your own benevolence : while on their parts,

they

( iv )

they confidered their leader as their beft friend and benefador. Dif- cipline was thus placed upon a bafis that mechanical valor can never eflablifhj upon a principle worthy of troops who can think and feel, confidence, and gratitude.

Duly impreffed with thefe and many other of your virtues — many more than you would permit me to enumerate ; I have the honor to be *

My Lord, Your Lordfhip's moft obedient, And moft devoted Humble Servant,

THOMAS ANBUREY.

PREFACE,

^TpHE following letters were written to ■■• gratify private friendfliip, and would never have been intruded upon the Public, but from the entreaties of fome of the moil refpe6lable Subfcribers to the Work, who flattered the Author, that as they contained much authentic information, relative to America, little known on this fide of the Atlantic, they could not fail of being intereiling to the Public.

Their

[ vi ]

Their ftyle and manner will clearly evince them to be the a6lual refult of a familiar correfpondence, and by no means void of thofe inaccuracies neceflarily arif- ing from the rapid efFufions of a confef- fedly inexperienced Writer, which will fcarcely be wondered at, by thofe who confider how Widely different are the qua- lifications neceffary to form the Soldier and the Author.

Every thing the Reader may meet with will not appear ilriclly noiroelle ; but this is a circumflance unavoidably attending the writer of a tour through a country, which has been already the fubje6l of fo much difculTion; but there are certainly many new circumftances related, w^hich will ferve to point out the true characler and manners of the Americans.

The

[ vii ]

The fa(5ls came within his own know- ledge, or are fupported by fome honour- able authority J and his motto has ever been.

•———Nothing ejctenuate. Nor fet down aught in Malice.

They will ftrike every man with the greater force, after the evident partiality of a late Author, who has been led to reprefent the Favorers of Independence as pofTefled of every amiable qualification, and thofe who efpoufed the rights of the Mother" Country, as deftitute of common feelings, and humanity itfelf.

The Author, fenfible how much thofe Subfcribers, whofe generofity has exceeded the limits of the fubfcription, would be hurt by a particular difliindion, co- jointly renders them thofe thanks,

" Which the tried heart that feeli alone can give."

DIRECTIONS FOR. PLACING THE PLATES.

VOL. I.

Map of America, oppofite the Title Page Facing Page

View of St. John's, upon the River Sorrell - - 136

The SedioQ and Plan of a Blockhoufe • - • 1 38

Indian Warrior ... * . agi

View of the Blockhoufe and Saw Mill - • • 350

View of the Encampment at Still Water • » 433

V O L. II.

American Continental Dollars . . ; i 40*

View of the Encampment of the Conveation Arn:y, at 7 Charlottefville - • - - J

443

SUBSCRIBERS

T O THE WORK.

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS — THE DUKE OF YORK

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS — PRINCE WILLIAM HENRY

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER.

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS — THE DUKE QF CUMBERLANQ

H,

.IS Grace 'The Duke of Argyle

The Right Hon. The Earl of Altamant

The Right Hon Lord Audley

The Hon. Lady Harriet Ackland

His Excellency- -Baron D'Alvenfleben

THE ROYAL REGIMENT OF ARTILLERY:

Lieut. Col. Walker ■ Johnfton

SUBSCRIBERS.

Klajor Williams

-, Lemoine

■ ' ■■■ Blomefield

Captain Houghton

Dyfart

f- — r— \Vi!lington

tm — . —. — vVh it worth

, — < Collier

Remington

— — Howarth

Hadderj

iJeut Reed

_ Neville

Sutton

Surgeon Mr, Wild

Major Affleck, -Portland-Street

Capt. Armftror.g, (8 Regt. of Foot)

James Abel, Efq Cloak-Lane

John AdJms, Efq.

Alexander Adair, Efq. Pall Mall

Mrs. Towers Allen, — Qiiecn's- Square

Mr. A. C. Arnold, — Loweitoft'

Mr. Rd. Aldridge, Briftol

|vlr. Wm. Auftm, -Idol-Lane

Ainfley's Library, Edinburgh

Andrews's Library, VVorgcilef

Mr. Axtell, r-lCornhill

James P. Andrews, Efq.

Amicable Society, Northampton

The Rt, Hon.-- — r-ThcEarl of Buckinghamfhire

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Barrymore

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Balcarres

The Rt. Hon. The Countefs of Balcarres

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Breadalbane

The Rt. Hon. Vifcount Barrington

The Rt. Hon. Vilcount Beauchamp

The Rt. Hon. -Lord Brow^ilow

SUBSCRIBERS^

, ^ Crnddyll, Efq.

Mrs. Bruddyll

Sir Robert Barker, Bart.

Sir William Augultus Brown, Bart.

Richard Beiiyon, Efq. M. i\

(jcneral Burgoyne

Dr. Brocklefby, — — Norfolk: -Street

Lieut. Col. Bovvyer, (6b Reizt.)

Capt. Bell, (i9Reot.)

Lieut. Col. Baillie, Edinburgh

Capt. Bowen, Lidependeiit Comp.

Capt. Barrette, Doncaiter, (iOO,Regt.)

Lieut. Budworth, (72Re2;t.) Richard Barwell, Eiq. M^ P.

Blomfield, Efq.

Johri Bax, Efq. ?re{lon, Kent

John Benjafield, Efq. Parliament-Street

Thomas iJeardmore, Efq. — —Temple

Mr. John Berry, Canterbury-Square

The Rev. Mr. Bowcher, Piccadilly

George Biggins, Efq. Effex -Street

Ynvr Burgefs, Efq. Eafl India Hcufe

The Rev. Dr. Bate, Walton

Lieut. Bartlet, (Royal Engineeri) .Chatham

Mr. pjroughton, Treafury

Mr. John Breadhower, Portfmouth

Mr. Barnikle, Plymouth

Mr. Burtenfhaw's Library, Brightheandcns

Thomas Bov.-es, Efq.

Mr. Bull's Library,— Bath

Mr. Thomas Batchc-lor, Brillol

Mr. Beazelcy, Blaci:-Fr::;rs Road

Mr. J. B. Becket, Briftol

John Bourchier, Efq. Ipfwich

Mr^. Barrukel

Rob. Barrett, Efq. London

Capt. Arthur Buitell, Marines

James Bet[<^, Efq. 'cflex-Street

Wm. Butler, Efq. -Grille- Scree t .

Mr. Baker's Library, ►iroutirin ptort

Mr. Barry's Litrary, iiuitin^s

1SUBSCRIBERS.

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Chefterfield

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Carlifle

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Cholmondeky

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Camden

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Cavan

The Rt. Hon. Lord Craven

l^he Rt. Hon. Lord Clifford

The Rt. Hon. Lord Carberry

The Rt. Hon. Lord Cathcart

The Rt. Hon. Lord Fred. Campbell

Sir Wm. Clerke, Bart. Sir Hy. Gough Calthorpe, Sir Henry Clinton, K. B.

General Chriltie, Leicefter- Square

Major Campbell, (24 Regt. of Foot) Capt. Cotter, (103 Regt.) Bryan Cooke, Efq. Mrs. Cooke

V/m. Cowden, Efq. Meiile

Ralph Clayton, Efq.

.Richard Crofts, Efq. Pall Mall

The Rev. Mr. Cove, Heiilone

Mrs. Cafement, ditto

James Crov/dy, Efq. Swindon, Wilts

iVlr. Jos. Colborne, Surgeon, Brentwood

Mr. Edm, Cotterell, ^Cold Bath Fields

Mr. James Cooper, Swidiin's-Lans

Dr. Cockall

Mr. Thomas Conder, Alderfgate -Street

The Rev. Mr. Crutwcll, Oakingham

James Cobb, Efq. Eaft Lidia Houfe

Mr. Crawford's Library, Brighthelmflone

Jos. Chew, Efq. Sec. fur India Affairs, North America

William Curtis, Efq. London

Lieut. Crichton, (31 Regt.) — — Gofport J. Croft, Efq.

SUBSCRIBE R S.

D _

His Grace— -—The Duke of Devonfliire ""."'.

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Derby

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Dartmouth

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Donegal ^'"

The Rt. Hon. The Countefs of Darnley

The Rt. Hon. Vifcount Duncannon

The Rt Hon. Vifcount Dalrymple

The Rt. Hon, iLord Ducie -— 7 • - -^'iT

The Rt. Hon. — -Lord Dorchefter .* :! ■.-A uriT

Colonel Dundas "" j'-m'I

Lieut. Will. Dalton, (Royal Navy) Rotherhlthe ; i

Lieut. Col. Delancey, Margaret- Street, Gavendifli-Square Major Dalrymple, (49 Regt. of Foot)

Capt. Duncan > **

Richard Dowding, Efq. Shadwell

Mr. George Dixon,— —Wooburne

Mr. John DeW) Shenfield

Mr. B. U. Dovvfon, Geldefton

The Rev. D. Davies, Macclesfield

Dulot and Owen's Library,- Brighthelmflon^

Mefi". Downes and March, -Yarmouth ""2""

The Rev. H. Bate Dudley, Bradv/eil ""_''

Rich. Jles Dimfdale, Efq. _"/[

E

The Rt. Hon.—- The Earl of Effingham

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Eglingt-ouue

The Rt. Hon, The Earl of Eufion

The Rt. Hon. Lord Elphinftone

Sir James Erfkine, Bart. Cavendifh-Square

THE ROYAL ENGINEERS,

Major General Sir William Greene, Bart« Lieut. Col. Moncrief Capt, Twifs

AJJ

S U B S C R I B E R. b^

Capt. Rudyard Lieut. Beatfon — — Courture — — Bartlett

Mrs. Edgar, Percy-Street

Mrs, Edwards,— -—Savage-Gardens Mr. Thomas Evans, Minories

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Fauconberg

The Rt. Hon.— — — Vifcount Falmouth

The Rt. Hon. .Vifcount Fielding

The Rt. Hon.— —Charles James Fox The Rt. Hon.— M. Fitzpatrick

FIRST (or king's) REGIMENT OF DRAGOON GUARDS.

General Sir George Howard, K. B.

Lieut. Col. Vyfe

Capt. Trotter

Lieut. Hawley

— — Syer

— — Beckford

«— — Serjeantfon

— Need Cornet Hamilton

FIRST REGIMENT OF FOOT GUARDS,

Colonel Bertie ■ .■ Strickland

- Hon. Francis Needhant • ■ Hon. H. F. Stanhope — — Sir Charles Afgill, Bart.

FIFTEENTH REGIMENT OF F00T#

Lieut, Gen. Sir. Wm. Fawcstt Lieut, Col. Myers

SUBSCRIBERS.

Capt. MaJJen

■ Ditmas

— — Paumier '

. Spencer

Gordon

. Brown

,— — Cockburne Lieut. Ball

• 3 topford

Enfign Barnard

• Mc Donald

Qr. Mafter Watkins $urgeon Mr. Anderfon

jFORTY-SIXTH REGIMENT OF FOOT,

Lieut. Col. Hon. Colin Lindfay Major Leighton Capt. Bell

, Wale

J^ieut. Lloyd

^ James

^ Dallas

FORTY-SEVENTlil REGIMENT OF FOOT»

Lieut. Col. Irving Major Coote »■ Alcock

- Aubrey Capt. Sir Henry Marr

-. Featherftone

Lieut. John(on Hill

■ ■■ Baldwin — — — Mc Lean

FORTY-EIGHTH RECIMJENT OF FOOT.

Lieut. Col. Hedges Major P'Arcy

SUBSCRIBERS,

Major Campbell Capt. Jones Lieut, Jones •— — Roberts

Enfxgn Beevor — — ' Power

Colonel Forbes, -Arlington-Street

Lieut. Col. Forfter, (66 Regt. Foot)

Thomas Fonyth, Eiq. -New Bond-Street

Cuthbert Fiftier, Efq. Tower

J. Flint, Efq. Shrewfbury

Mr. Fletcher,- Liverpool 2 fets

Mr. Forreft, —St. Martin's-Lane

Rofe Fuller, Efq.^ Wigmore-Street

Walter Farquhar, Efq Great Marlborough- Street

Mr. Firmin, . — Strand

1 homas Fortune, Efq. ^ London

Mr. Fenno's Library, Colcheiler

His Grace -The Duke of Grafton

His Grace- The Duke of Gordon

The Rt. Hon Earl Grofvenor

The Rt. Hon. Earl of Glafgow

The Rt. Hon. Lord Gage

(jener;-'.] Crcjrdon Capt. Gwynn

Lieut. Gordon, Parliament -Street

(jrant, Efq.

RicharcfGray, Efq. Pdl Mall

Mrs. Gibfon, Hertford-Street

Samuel Greaves, Efq. -Mancheftcr

The Rev. Mr. Gryll, Helftone

Mr. T. Gryll, ditto

Thomas Glynn, Efq.

The Rev. Mr. Gilbert, Helftone

Mr. Gardner, -London

SUBSCRIBERS.

H

His Grace The Duke of Hamilton

The Rt. Hon. -The Earl of Huntingdon

The Rt. Hon. 'i'he Earl of Harrington

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Harcourt

The Rt, Hon. -The Earl of Hertford

The Rt. Hon. Lord Howard

The Rt. Hon. Lord Hawlce

The Rt. Hon. Lord Hawkefourjr

The Rt. Hon. Lord Heathfteld

I'he Rt. Hon. Lord Hood

The Rt. Hon. -Lord Archibald Hamilton

The Rt. Hon. Lord Spencer Hamilton

Sir Watts Horton, Bart.

The Hon. Mrs. Horton

The Hon. liady Horton

The Rev. Mr. Horton

The Hon. Mr. Heneage

Mr. Harman, Princes- Street, oppofite the Manfion-Houfe

THE ROYAL REGIMENT OF HORSE GUARDS.

The Rt Hon. General Conway

Col. Bakhwayt Capt. Milnes — — Chaplin «-• - JefFerfon

Col. Harnage, Parliament- Street

Major Hawker, ditto

Capt. Hanchett Capt. Hardy

Major Haines, Hampfhire

Mr. Hall, Surgeon, (51 Regt.) ^

l^he Rev. Mr. Hornby

Mrs. Hindes, Hertford-Street

John Hawkins, Efq. ►Helflone

James Watfon Hull, Efq.- -Belvedere, Ireland

SUBSCRIBERS.

Trevor Hull, Efq. Greck-Srrcet

Mr. Hincke&j Great Portland-Street

Mr. John Harding, Strand

Mr. Hollyoake, ~^^^ Red Lion-Square

Mr. Harris, St. Mary Axe

Anthony Highmore, Efq. ditto

Edward Hcylin, Efq. -Iflington

Mr. Hope, Upper Seymour-Street, Cavendifli-Square

Eenj. Henfliaw, Eiq — Hodfdon

Thomas Hodgfon, Efq Briftol

McfT. Haydon and Sons,- Plymouth

The Gentlemens Book Club at Hclftone

Col. Hill, (late of the 9th Regt.) Helilone

Capt. Richard Hill, Helflone

William Hofte, Efq. Barwick

Mr. George Hall,- -Star-Office, Exeter-Street

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Jerfey

Lieut. Col. Jacques, (51 Regt. of Foot)

Sir John Johnfon, Superintendant to the Indians in Canada

Col. Jcflbp, Fludyer-Street

Lieut Jones, -Lower Brook-Street

Gen. Johnfon

Alex. Irvine, Efq. -Berner's-Street

Mr. Richard Johns, Helftone

Mr. Johnfon, Piccadilly

Mr. Samuel Johnfon, Briftol

K

The Rt. Hon. Lord Kenfington

Lieut. Col. Kingfton, (28 Regt. ot Foot)

Capt. Kempthorne, -Helftone

Kellett, Efq. RuiTel- Street, Covent-Garden

John Keene, Efq. Manfion Houfe

Mr. James Kerby, London

Mr. Charles Knight, Windfor

Mr, Frederic Kanmacher

S U B S C R I 13 E R S.

}Jis Grace -The Duke of Leeds

The Rt Hon. The Marquils of Lanfdown

The Rt. Hon The Maiquifs of Lothain

7'he Rt Hon. The Earl Ludlow

The Rt. Hon.— Lord Livaint:

The Hon. Robert Lind'ay

The Hon. — — Capt. John Lindfay

The Hon Hugh Lindfay

Sir Michael Le Fleming, Bart. Hertford -Street

General Lambton, Harley-Street

Paul Le Mefurier, Efq.— Al.P.— Walbrook

Charter Layton, Kfq. Drayton

Mr. Loxley, Poultry

Mr. Lofack, Wigmore-Street

Mr. John Lee, Black-Friars

Mr. Leigh, -Thorndon

Mr. John Lees, Brentford

M

His Grace The Duke of Marlborough

His Grace The Duke of Montrofe

The Rt. Hon. Vifcount Mount Fdgecumbe

The Rt. Hon. Vifcount Molefworth

The Rt. Hon. V^ifcount Melbourne

The Rt. Hon. Vifcount Mountiluart

The Rt. Hon Lord Milford

Richard Mafter, Efq M P —Charles-Street, BerkleyqSq. J. Madocks, Efq.(Coldftream Regt. Gds.) Kcdiord-^trect

Major Money, Norwich

Capt. A'lc. Kinnon, (63 Regt.) Ireland

Capt. Robert Mc. Crea, Guernll-y

Cuthbert Mafhiter, Efq. Romford

Edward Mafon, Efq. Spital-Ficlds

The Rev. Mr. Mingin, Golden- Square

Mr. Mackreth, ^Scotland -Yard

Mr. Jofeph Mitche!!, Uc]\\'>ac

J.M.lbanhe, E{q.

SUBSCRIBERS.

The Rev. Dr. Morgan, St. Jamcs's-Square

James Madden, Efq St. Albans-Street

Thomas Mauae, tiq. Temple

Mr. Mc Leifh's Library, Edinburgh

N

His Grace The Duke of Northumberland

THE NINTH REGIMENT OF FOOT.

Lieut, CoL Campbell Major Ritchie Capt. Baiilie

Hocy

— — Buchannan Spencer

- - Vincent

Timms

• Murray - , .

■ Piercy

Rofe

Mc Lean

Lieut. Reynolds

Mirchell

; — Fatio

Enfigns James Rofc . DuiTe

Dalziel

BurbrlJgc

- ' ■■- O'Connor Enfign Kcightley

Wolfe

Chaplain — The Rev. Mr. Clcwlow

THE ROYAL NAVY.

Admiral Montague Cupt. Dacrcs

SUBSCRIBERS.

— — Hardy

. Schanks

Lieut. Wm. Dalton

■■■ Wm. Bentick

Mrs. Newberry,-i St. Paul's Church- Yard

O

Sir George Ofborn,Bart. Charles-Street, Berkley- Square James OrmfbyjEfq Dublin

His Grace The Duke of Portland

Her Grace The Dutchefs of Portland

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Plymouth

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Powis

The Rt. Hon. Vifcount Palmerftone

n^he Rt. Hon. Lord Pelham

The Rt. Hon. Lord Petre

The Hon. Mr. Petre, Grofvenor-Square

The Hon. IVIr. G. Petre, Somerfet-Street

The Hon. Thomas Pelham, Stretton-Street

The Hon. General Parker

Gen. Pitt, Tenterden- Street

Capt. Peacock, (17 Regt. of Foot)

Mr. Piigh,- — Poultry

Mrs. Piozzi, Hanover- Square

Mr. Phillips, Somerfetfliire

Mr. Thomas Powell, Terace, Buckingham-Street

Mr. Parnell, Church- Street, Spital-Fields

Capt. Walter Proffer, — Ireland

Palmer and Merrick's Library, Oxford

Mr. Powell,' Newgate-Street

Punchard and Jermyns's Library, Ipfwich ^rhomas Boothby Parkyns, Efq. Thomas Paulk, Efq.

-• S U B s c k I B E k s.

R

The Rt. Hon.' --The Earl of Radnor

The Rt. Hon. -Lord Rivers

The Rt. Hon. -Lord Rodney

The Rt. Hon. Lord Ravvdon

Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. — Portland-lMace

Capt. Reed, (103 Regt.;

Mr. Robfon,——— Princes -Strcc:, Hanover-Square

Mr. Alexander Roberts, Red Lion-Square

John Roe,ers, Efq. Hclftone

E.Read,^Efq Chcfter

George Rome, Elq. Mount-Street

John Le Chevaher Roome, Efq. London-Road

Mr. Rufli,' Fountain Street

Alexander Raby, Efq. — Cobhanv '

Mrs. Raby

Mr. Robinfon, — Cornhill

His Grace -The Duke of St. Albans

The Rt. Hon.^ -The Earl of SufFcik

The Rt. Hon.- The Earl of Shaftelbury

The Rt. Hon.- The Countefs Dow. of Shaftefbury

The Rt. Hon.— — — ^^The Earl of Scarborough The Rt. Hon.—- — -The Earl of Stanhope

The Rt, Hon.— Earl Spencer

The Rt. Hon.- Th.e Earl Stamford

The Rt. Hon. Vifcount Stormont

The Rt. Hon. Lord Say and Selc

The Rt. Hon.- —Lord Stourton

The Rt. Hon. — Lord St. John

The Rt. Hon.— -«~ Lord Scarfdale

1 he Rt. Hon Lord Southampton

The Rt. Hon. —Lord Robert Spencer

llie Rt. Hon Lady Ann Simpfon

The Hon. Mr. Sandilands

Thomas Stanley, Efq. M. P. Pall Mall

R. B. SlK-ridan, !::fq. M.P. Braton Street

SUBSCRIBERS.

SECOND (or royal N. BRITISH) REGT. OF DRAGOONS,

Major Ramfay Capt. Searord

Smith

Boardinan

Lieut. Fortefcue Cornet "VVigley

.. Bothwcll

Leigh

SIXTEENTH (oR QUEEN*'s) REGT. OF LIGHT DRAGOONS.

The Hon. Major General Harcourt

Major Gardner

. Hon. H. Bennett

Howell

Capt. Boyce

Carmichacl

Lieut. Hawker

Smallett

Archer

■ Munro Cornet A{hton

Lee

Pennyman

Cornet Anfon — —— Deering

SIXTY-SECOND REGIMENT OF FOOT.

Major Gen. — Matthews Lieut. Col. — Campbell Major Howe Capt Banbury

Sotheron

Wybrants

Blackall

SUBSCRIBERS.

— — Matthias 1 . .- Bromhead 1-^ Blacker

Vallancey

Lieut. James

Brudenell

Gourlay

~ Batchelor

Kerr

Enfign Kent

•: Garden

Major Skcne,- Lieut. Stuart Mr. Seddon,—

-Chelfea

-Alderfgate- Street Lancafhire

- Camberwcll

Stratlbrd-Place

-Briftol

John Sawrey, Efq.- Edw. Spike, Efq. Mrs. Spike Mifs Spike Mr. John Slade, — Daniel Seton, Efq.-

Mr. Shiercliffe,

Mr. Charles Spitta, — -College-Hill

John Scott, Efq. Wigmore-Street

Capt. Scott, (53 Regtof Eoot)

Mr. Scott, Jun. Norwich

Mifs Sndths," ' — -Percy-Street

James Simmonds, Efq. Banker,- Canterbury

Simmons and Kirby, Canterbury

John Seleer, Efq. London

Mr. Stalker, London

Jvlr. Sollors,-' ■ - -Blandford The Rev. Mr. Salmon

Mr. J, F. Souel, Guernfey

John Seeker, Efq. —Windfor

Stell's Library, Haftings

10 (ii.

Am'

SUBSCRIBERS.

T

The Rt. Hon. The Marquifs of Titchfield

The Rt. Hon. Lord Torphicheu

The Hon. . — Mr. Twifleton Thompfon

Sir Charles Thompfon, Bart. K.B. Bond- Street Sir John Thorold, Bart. Cavendiih-Square

THE THIRD REGIMENT OF HORSE, OR CARBINEERS.

Colonel Longfield Major Wilford

= Willey

Capt. Smith '

Tifdale

Rofs

Lieut. Daniel ———French

-Templeton

—Fitzgerald

—Sir Thomas Chapmart

Cornet Cramer

' Gillefpie

———Longfield

Hon. Geo. Pomloy

• Duncombe

Surgeon James Wallace"

THE THIRD (oR PRINCE OF WALEs's) REGT. OF DRAG. GUARDS.

Major Gen. Phillipfon Col. Manfell Capt. Milbanke

Charlton

Lieut. Charlton Cornet Dottcri

TWENTIETH REGIMENT OF FOOT.

Colonel Liiid

Major Hon. S. D. Srrangeways

Roilinfon

SUBSCRIBERS.

Capt. Winchefter

-, Norman

Lieut. B^teman Brooke Enfign Wynyard

YWENTY^FIRST REGT.OF FOOT (OR RNB) FU2ILEERS.

Colonel Hamilton A Taj or LoveU Capt. Petrie

Brodie

Lieut. Grant

• Dalgleifli

Congalton

Qr. M. Geo. Lauder

TW?NTY-FOURTH REGIIVIENT OF FOCTi

Lieut. Gen. Wm. Tayler Lieut. Col. England Major Pilmer ' Campbell

Capt. Blake . SticI

W. Doyle

Lieut, Leyboarne

^ Short

HoUings

Lufign Meyridc

General Trapaud, — ' -Berner's-Street

Col. Anftruther Thompfon, — (late of 62 Rcgt.) Edinburgh

Samuel Toulmin, Efq ^Walbrook

Mr. James Turner, Jun.— Milbank

Thomas Trewin, Efq. Helftoiie

John Trevener, Efq. — —ditto

Mr. William Terwin, Haymarket

Mr. Templeman, Size-Lane

Edward Thornycroft, Efq. -rChefter

Mr. William IVufton, Brentwood

Mr. John Thomas

Rev. Mr. Hen. Hawkins Tremayne,A.M.Heligan, Cornwall

Mr. Leigh Thorndon,

'J'hpnmi Fcitune, f fq. — ^-^ London

SUBSCRIBERS,^

Mr. Thur2;ocJ, Fenchurch Street

Pavid Thomas, p:fq. — Fay Mafter in America

u

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Upper OfTory

Mr. Benjamin IJphil!,— Mount-Street, GroiVenor Square Corneliub Vanderrtop,Elq. Princes-St. Hanover-bq.

W

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Weftn-ioreland

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Winchelfea

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Waldegrave

The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Warwick

The R.t. Hon. Vifcount Weymouth

The Rt. Hon.- Lord Willoughby de Broke

The Rt. Hon. Lord Walpole

Sir Watkin WiUiams Wynne, Bart. — St. James 's-Squaris

Sir George Warren, K B. Grafton-Street

Mifs VVarburton General Warde

Capt. Willoe, (8 Regt. of Foot>

-■ ■■ Wifeman, (53 Regt. of Foot)

Edward Wilford, Efq. Cheli'ca

• . Williamfon, Efq. 1 emple

Richard Whatley, Efq. ?arliament-Stre^

Rev. Mr. Whatley, ditto

Kev. Mr. Wills, Helftone

Mr. John Whitehead, Bafinghall-Street

Mr. Thomas WagftafF, Highgate

Mr. John Winpenny, Briftol

Robert WoodritF, Efq. Temple

Mr. Matthew White, St. Swithin's-Lane

Woodmafon and Page, Leadenhall- Street

James Woodmiifoi], Efq. Bond-Strqet

^lajor William Young

ERR At A,

VOL. I.

Page Line 15 12 after the word to add them 21 2 J after frigate add au/jo 56 7&8 for 9^2 d'arri'ver read

qtcal^riHjer 60 — Latin quotation mifplaced,

/'fg^/« ■Ti)//^ /,6f lovjer lt7:e 75 7 /^t;/«j- ^0 be ioifeem to be 90 ^ Dura iov dttrce 109 I Si 2 for Enfant xt3.A Enfans 324. 19 for and lave lejid and they

haiJe 341 I o for /»£'/zVf read pedit 349 14 for /««/ rt^\fent 156 9 for ociAtis read occultls 395 10 iotfiand as \z-&AJlands a 195 laii line, after celui add qui 449 a for .«//(/ read jhould

VOL. II. Page Line

52 1 1 (or F^frcis re:id Francis • 190 14 for 1788 read 177S 197 17 for £;2iertain read £'«/f/'-

tairted 22 1 laft line rjleeming for efieemed 225 II aw/T z^wrt't'r for /Zny iv-^rrf

2S3 16 for jjiahing of Cyder read

■ir.ah'ing Cyder

2?? 15 omit the word Old

361 16 inltead oi/&r read or 376 2 omit the after T^^r 3p5 7 after P;/r/f^ add -if/jitZi

425 iS bearing for leaving 480 6 after /-i^add/W

505 22 fov pet its red.d petit es

506 1 for //v/^ read /rw^ir

TRAVELS

THROUGH THE

INTERIOR PARI'S

OF

AMERICA.

LETTER I.

Corky Auguji %th, iJ-jO* MY DEAR FRIEND,

T RECEIVED your letter, dated the 2d -■- inftant, and lurely nothing can be more flattering than the warm teflimony bf regard and friendfhip every line of it fpeaks. — It was with great relu6lance you confented to m^y going into the army, but a dull inactive life neither fuited my cir- cumftances nor my inclination, and an early Vol. I. B love

2 INTERIOR TRAVELS

love of a military one, foon determined my choice. My time and poor abilities cannot be fo well employed, as in the fer- Vice of my King and country.

I have no regrets at quitting England, but the lofs I muft fuftain in your pleafant and improving converfation j and am per- fuaded you will alleviate as many of thofe painful refle6lions as pofiible, by taking every opportunity of writing to me. — None fliall be omitted, on my part, of affuring you hov/ often I think of you, and the implicit attention I fliall ever pay to your comm.ands, in giving you a de- fcription of perfons, places, and various occurrences — and fhould I fometimes be too particular on trivial fubje^ts, you muil excufe it, and remember the two prevailing motives you affigned for this kind of cor- refpondence — the pleafure you was fo ob- liging to fay it would afford you, and the utility you thought it would be of to me,

by

THROUGH AMERICA.

3

by calling my attention to whatever be- came in tlie Icaft worthy of obfcrvation.

This is the laft you muft expe6l from me on this fide the Atlantic, as in a few days we fail, with the care of fome recruits for the 47th regiment.

I once more entreat you, my dear friend, to take eveiy opportunity of writing to me, and believe that time and diflance can never abate the refpe6l and friendfhip with which I am,

Yours J &c.

E2 LET-

I N T E R I O I^ - T R A V E L &

LETTER IL

On hoard the Hoive, on the ^ ~ . t I Sept. I ilh.

Banks of Ne'tvfoundland. J 1776. MY DEAR FRIEND,

It T would be very ungrateful indeed not '*' to embrace the opportunity, by a fhip that is bound for England, now lying too for letters, to fend you a hafty account of the events that have happened fmce my departure from Ireland.

You know I had the care of fome re- cruits for the 47th regiment ; and as they were compofed of that nation, no lefs famous for their chara6leriftic errors, than their fpirit and unbounded hofpitality, let me relate a cafual occurrence or ,two, in place of novelty, which cannot be ex- pelled,

THROUGH AMERICA. §

cd, fituated as I am, between Iky and water.

There were continually fome little dif- putes among thefe Hibernians. One day, on hearing a more than ufual noife upon deck, I went up to enquire the occafion of it, and learnt it was a quarrel between two of them. Upon afls.ing the caufe of him who appeared the tranfgrefTor, he ex- claimed, " Oh ! and plaife your Honor, I *' did nothing to him at all, at all" — when the other haftily replied, " Oh yes, and " plaife your Honor, he faid as how he " would take up a flick and blow my " brains out." The peculiar manner in which it was vociferated, was fo truly comic, that I could not refrain from laughter, and merely reprimanding them, overlooked the offence. >

The weather has been very pleafant, 'till

a few days previous to our coming on

B 3 thefe

6 INTERIOR TRAVELS

thefe Banks J when there enfued a moft dreadful iiiorm. The fhip was unable to carry the leafl: fail, being left to the fury of the driving tempeft, it wac impoffible for any one to keep the deck, and the helm was lallied hard of weather,

About the third day the fcorm began to abate, and the evening became almoil calm. But there was fuch a prodigious fwell of the fea, that the fnip was expe6l- ed every moment to roll her mails over- board : (lie had driven fo much to the lee- ward, that although we could not difcern land, the yards and rigging were covered with birds, that were blown from it by the ftorm.

At this time, one of my recruits com- ing upon deck, not obferving any one there, and the fea fo tremendous, imme- diately went below, and cried out to his companions, " Oh ! by my foul, honeys, the

" fea

THROUGH AMERICA. J

" fea is very di'eadful, and we are all fure " to Be drovN'ned, for the fliip's a finking. *' However, I have this confolation, that ^' if fhe goes to the bottom, the Captain " muft be accountable for us when we get " to Quebec." And his fears operated io powerfully, that he gave a groan, and fainted away.

A few days after this the fea, whicli before had been fo tremendous, and to ufe the technical phrafe, run mountains high, was now become as calm as a mill-pond. It is cuilomary, on fuch weather, in a fleet, for one fhip to invite the Captains and pafTengers of others to dinner. The mode of invitation on thefe occaiions, is by hoifling a table-cloth to the enfign- ftafF.

We hung out this fignal, and the Cap- tain of the neareft fliip, with an officer, came on board, After dinner, fo fudden B 4 and

S INTERIOR TRAVELS

and ilrong a breeze fprung up, as to ren- der their return very unfafe, and it was two days before they could venture, when even then they accomplilned it with im- minent danger.

This is a little anecdote I cannot help v/ifliing to be much noticed, as it might be a caution to young officers and captains of fhips, how they m.ake nautical vifits, or upon any occafion quit their veilels.

Thefe Banks may be ranked amongfl the many furprifnig and wonderful works of nature, being a mountain formed under water, by the Dime that is continually wailiing away from the Continent. Its extent has never yet been afcertained, but is generally reckoned to be about i6o leagues long, and 90 broad. About the . middle of it is a kind of bay, called the Ditch. The depth of water varies confi-

derably,

THROUGH AxM ERICA. 9

derably, being in fome places only five, and in others fixty fathom. The fun is fcaixely ever to be difcerned, a cold thick fog generally covering the v^^hole atmof- phere, which renders it extremely dan- gerous to a fleet ; for it is at times a ftate of total darknefs, v^here a continual firing of guns, or incelTant noife of the di'um, can alone prevent the ihips running foul of each other.

The winds around thefe Banks are ge- nerally very impetuous ; the conftant agi- tation of the waves, I am informed, is occa- fioned from the fea being di'iven by irre- gular currents, that beat fometimes on one fide and fometimes on the other, ftrik- ing v/ith great force againil the borders of thefe Banks, which are every where almoU perpendicular, and repel them with equal violence : and yet, on the Banks themfelves, a little from the coafl, it is as quiet as in a

bay,

20 INTERIOR TRAVELS

bay, except there happens to bea ftrong and forced wind coming from a great dillance.

When we found we were upon thefe Banks, which is perceptible without found- ing, as the water changes from an azure bhie to a white fandy color, we laid too in order to fiili for cod, the procefs of which is no lefs entertaining than furpriz- ing to Europeans.

After baiting the hooks with the en- trails of a fowl, in a few minutes we caught a fiih, when the failors made ufe of fome part of the entrails, as being a better bait, and then drew up the cod as faft as you can poffibly imagine ; for though we remained there only half an hour, we caught as many as v/ould fei*ve the fliip's crew the refl: of the voyage.

You may wonder by v/hat means they are certain of having caught a iifn, with

fo

THROUGH AMERICA. II

fo many fathom of line out. When it has been a Httle while in the water, they gently pull it with the finger and thumb, and if there is a fiih, the ftruggling of it occafions a vibration of tlie line, which is very perceptible, though fo many fathoms deep. They then haul it in, and as foon as the fiili comes in view, the water mag- nifies it to fuch a ilze, that it appears almofl impofTible to get it on board 3 and indeed it requires fome dexterity, for on Jiauling them out of the v/ater they flruggle with fuch violence, as frequently to work themfelves off the hooks, by entangling the line in the rigging, before they can be got up the fhip's fide.

But thofe vefTels which particularly follow this bufniefs, avoid the inconvenience by erefting galleries on the outfide, from the main-mad to the ftern, and fometimes the whole length of the fliip, in which are placed barrels with the tops fcruck out,

and

12 INTERIOR TRAVELS

and the fifliermen get into thefe to fhelter themfelves from the weather. Their Hay, I imagine, cannot be long, as the method of curing is equally as expeditious as the catching themj for as foon as the cod is caught, they cut out its tongue, and give it to one who immediately ftrikes oif its head, plucks out its liver and entrails, and giving it to another, the bone is drawn out as far as the navel s it is then thrown into the hold of the iliip, where it is falted and ranged in piles. The perfon v/ho falts it is careful to leave fuflicient fait between the rows of fifh, to prevent them touching each other, and yet not too mi^ch, as either excefs would fpoil the cod.

The right of fifliing upon the Great Bank, by the law of nature, ought to have been common to all mankind 5 but England and France, being the only tv/o powers that had colonies in North America, made no fcruple to appropriate to themfelves,

what

-^THROUGH AMERICA. I3

what Spain certainly had the greatelt claim to, as the original difcoverers of itj and. ■who, from the number of her monks and prieils, as well as her religion, might have pleaded the necellity of keeping. Yet at the conclufion of the laft peace, they entirely gave up all pretenfions to it : iince which time England and France are the only nations that frequent thofe latitudes, and both have frigates continually cruiz- ing, to prevent the encroachments of other nations.

The produce of this fifheiy is certainly a moft inexhauilible V\^ealth to both coun- tries, and it is no wonder they are fo very tenacious of it: yet it is furprizing what a large circuit the fhips are obliged to take before their voyage is compleated, and the profits refulting from this fifhery returns to either, nearly traverfmg by w ater half the globe : for, in the firft in- flance, they fail from their refpe6Live ports

in

14 INTERIOR TRAVELS

in Europe to thefe Banks, from whence they proceed with their cargoes to the Mediterranean and African iflands, where they difpofe of their fiih for the produce of thofe illands, then go to the Weft Indies, to exchange that cargo, and return horae laden with fugars and rum.

It appears a very finguiar circumftance, that thefe Banks fhould abound with cod and no other fifh ; and that the greateft philofophers have never been able to ac- count for it.

The Captain of the fhip that is waiting for our letters growing impatient, obliges me to make a hafty conclufion, with wiili- ing you health and happinefs, and affur- ing you that you Ihall hear from me as foon as I arrive at Quebec.

I am,

Yours, &c,

LET-

THROUGH AMERICA. J^

LETTER III.

i^tl>ec, Oif. Sth, 1776. DEAR SIR,

A F T E R a fatiguing pafTage of eleven •^ ^ weeks, attended witli no little dan- ger, vve are fafe arrived at Quebec, which before I proceed to give you any defcrip- tion of, it vvall be more methodical to re- late the occurrences that befel us the re- mamder of our voyage.

I toid you in my lafl, that we had fri- gates cruizing on the Banks, one of v/hich informed us, that there v/ere feveral priva- teers in the river Saint Laurence. Had we been lefs attentive to, and more apprehen- five of the flioals and fands that river abounds with, rendering its navigation dif- ficult

l6 INTERIOR TRAVELS'

ficult and dangerous, it would have been better for us ; for a few days after we had pafTed CapeRofier, a favorable wind fpring- ing up, the Captain crouded all the fail he polTibly could, in order to get the next morning to the iile of Bee, where he might find a pilot, being very uneafy, as he had never been up that river before.

But to our great furprize and aftonifh- ment, about one o'clock in the morning, we run right upon a fhoal (which is called Mille Vache) with amazing violence.

A fhip belonging to the fleet that had gone a head in the day time, and perceived the flioal, (being low water) had immedi- ately brought too, to warn us of our dan- ger, y/hich they did, by firing fignai guns. But the Captain miftaking them for thofe of a privateer, returned the fhot.

The

Ti: ■ROUGH AMET. ICA. \J

The fnip beat with great violence, and was every moment expefted to go to pieces"; but the tide Toon turning, flie retled upon the ground, and to our great ailonifliment, at the break of day, we found ourfelves io near the fliore, that, to ufe a fea phrafe, we could almoft chuck a bifcuit on it.

Upon the clearing Up of a fog^ a fhip was difcerned, Vvhich proved to be the fame that had fired guns in the ni^ht time : fhe v/as then about three leagues difcant. We immediately fxred guns of diflrefs, of which ilie took no notice, and imagined file had, as too frequently is the cafe, deferted us, becaufe we were in diilrefs and flood in need of her alnitance.

However, we found friends in a quarter we little expelled, for a canoe with three men paddled from the fliore, one of whom came on board and told us, Vv-e v>'ere very fortunate to have ftruck at the time of Vol. I. C fpring-

l8 INTERIOR TRAVELS

ipring-tides, or there would be no proba- bility of the fhip's being got off. He dire£led us, when the tide was' coming in, to carry out the bow anchor the length of the cable, and then made no doubt, but at the full, the fhip would float again, and we might warp off.

After having given every proper in- ftru6lion, he took his leave, requelling,. at the fame time, that in cafe Vv^e were fo- unfortunate as not to effeft it, we would come afhore to his houfe, offering every afhilance to fave the cargo, and with a iloop of his to talve us up the river^

At the return of the tide fome men were fent out with the anchor, according to the direftions given; at the heigh th of it we floated, and to the joyful fatisfa6lion of every one, got clear off, fuffaining no other damage than the lofs of t\^^o anchors : yet fuch was the Captain's care and anxiety for

his

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 9

ills owners, that, I am peiTuaded, he vvoiild not have exprelTed half the concern for the lofs of the v/hole fnip's burthen and Company, that he did for his anchors : as with Captains of hired tranfports, the crew and the cargo are but fecondary objecls.

This is one inftance of the numberlefs accidents that await tranfports, by which, I am convinced, the fervice is retarded, and many operations, however critical, Vv^hich depend, on troops and provifion, are often fruftrated, either by defign or negli- gence. For only figure to yourfelf what a fituation an army of fo many thoiifands as that we have upon the Continent, and thofe chiefly fed with provifions from the Motlier Country, mufl be in, upon the flighted delay.

It is much to be lamented, therefore,

that all tranfports are not com.manded by

King's officers, or at leaft the mafccr made

C 2 more

20 INTERIOR TRAVELS

more fubjecl to controul, when under convoy, or naval orders ; as it v^ould prevent the inconvenience and hazard that is continually happening to the King's fervice.

You will fuppofe it furprizing that this has never been noticed and remedied by thofe in power. I fliould have thought the affair of the powder-fliip that went into Bofton, would have occaiioned a thorough inveftigation of this iniquitous bufmefs.

The Captains of tranfparts in general, are a fet of people w^io have their own in- tereft much more at heart than the welfare of their country; and it is well known that many of them are difaffecled to Go- vernment, which was the cafe of the Cap- tain of the fliip jufl alluded to, but where the blame is to be imputed, is not for me to fay. As in all probability you may

not

THROUGH AMERICA. 21

not have heard of this affair, or the real truth of it may not have reached you, I fliall relate the matter, as I had it from a Captain of a fhip who failed in the fame fleet, v/ hofe veracity can be relied on, and from the amazing ftrange circumftances which attended the lofs of that fliip, you may form your own opinions.

It feems this vefTel was an immenfe charge, containing' 1500 barrels of gun- powder, befides a great c[uantity of other warlike ftores. Several perfons well dif- pofed to Government, and who were per- feftiy aquainted with the Captain's" prin- ciples, informed thofe who had the direc- tion of tranfports at Cork, that this man would, the very firil opportunity, leave the convoy and join the Americans, but no attention was paid to the information ; upon w^hich they exprelled their apprehen- fions to the Captain of the frigate was to convoy them out, who promifed to C 3 take

22 INTERIOR TRAVELS

take all polTible care of that fhip during the voyage : and every one in the fleet thought he was not the man reprefented, as he kept clofe under the flern of the frigate.

When the fleet came off Boflon harbour, a frigate that was cruizing for the purpofe, informed them, that the King's troops had evacuated Bofton, and gone to Halifax ; and in the fleet's failing to that place, in one of thofe fogs that I have already de- fcribed to you, the Captain of the pov/der- Ihip feized the opportunity, left the fleet, and failed back for Bollon, at the mouth of which harbour was ftationed a fifty-gun Ihip, to prevent any velFel from going in, that might have efcaped any of the fri-. gates that v/ere cruizing.

Upon the Captain of the tranfport's being interrogated by the man of war, he acknowledged himfelf bound for Bof-

ton.

THROUGH AMERICA, 23

ton, that he had not heard of the troops evacuating it, and feveral more excufes ; but fome doubts and fufpicions arifmg from the man's converfation, and file being found a ihip of fuch an im-^ menfe treafure, an officer was fent on board her, and as the evening was coming on, lafhed her to his main-mafl, intending to fail her the next morning for Ha- lifax, under the befl convoy he could ^ftord.

But to fliew you what a determined villain the Captain of the tranfport was, in the night time, he confined the Lieute- nant, who was fent on board, cut away from the man of war, and under cover of the night, made all poffible expedition to get into BoHon,

The tide v/ould not anfwer his purpofe

that time, and the man of war could not

come up to her, for want of a fufncient

C 4 depth

24 INTERIOR TRAVELS

depth of water. The Captain manned his pinnace, and fent another Lieutenant on board her. Upon the onicer's attempting it, the Captain ftinick a harpoon into his Ikull^ he fell into the boat, and the reil finding a great refiltance, and that they were likely to be overpowered, rowed back again.

The tide now turned, and he got the fliip fafe under the cannon of the Ameri- cans, before a greater force could be dif- patched to retake polTeirion of her.

The lofs on our fide was great indeed, but the advantage to the Americans was tenfold, as they were in the utmoft diilrefs for thofe materials, and which event may in fome m^eafure procraftinate this unfor- tunate war.

Two days after our late accident, we arrived off the ille of Condre, where we got

a pilotj

TIJKOUGII AMERICA. 2^

a pilot, and three days after anchored fafe in the bafon of this city.

Fearful of being too late-to fend this by a fiiip tliat is j nil failing for England, there is only time to afTure you, that I fliall embrace every opportunity of convincing you, with how much fincerity and friend- fliip I am,

Yours, &c.

LET-

26 INTERIOR TRAVEL^

LETTER IV.

MY DEAR FRIENDj

T^EFORE you have any account of "^ this city and its environs, I fliall de- fcribe to you the river Saint Laurence, which, upon their firfl faihng up it, is the aftonifliment and admiration of every Eu- ropean. In forming an idea of a river, people in general are apt to judge by com- parifon : thofe v^ho have made the tour of Europe, inftantly call to rnind the Rhine and the Danube ^ thofe who have not, the Thames. What will you fay, when you are informed that thefe, though very noble and beautiful, are but mere rivulets, when

put

THROUGH AMERICA. 27

put in competition with that of Saint Laurence.

This liver iffues from lake Ontario, taking its courfe north-eafl, wafhing Mon- treal, where it receives the Outtuais, form- ing many fertile illands, and a lake which is called St. Pierre, it continues the fame courfe, and meets the tide 400 miles from the fea, where it is navigable -for large velTels. After receiving in its progrefs in- numerable fbreams, this great river falls into the ocean at Cape Rofier ; it is there 90 miles broad, v/here the cold in ge- neral is fevere, and the fea rather boif- terous. In its progrefs it forms variety of bays, harbours and ifiands, many of the latter being extremely fruitful and plea- fant.

The river Saint Laurence has ever been looked upon as a good defence to this pro- vince, for in the neighbourhood of Quebec,

it

28 INTERIOR TRx-WELS

it abounds witli hidden rocks, with ftrong currents in many places, which force the , fliips to make various windings. From tJie time that Quebec was befieged by Sir William Phipps, in the year 1690, who was obliged to retire with a great lofs df fnipping, this river was veiy little known to the Englifh till the year 1759, when Sir Charles Saunders, with a fleet of 50 Englifh men of war, and near 300. fail of tranfports, arrived off Quebec, without the lofs of a fmgle fliip, which clearly proves thofe dangers were not fo great as had been reprefented. Since that time it has been better kncvvqi ; and though wq have not at prefent at this place fo many men of war, yet there ai*e near as many tranfports, notwith (landing the navigation lip this river from the fea is rendered very dangerous, by the ftrength of the current and the number of fand-banks, which fre- <[uently arifc in places where they never- appeared before) the fatal confequences of

which

■THROUGH AMERICA. 29

which feveral vefiels have experienced this war.

There are abundance of porpoifes in the river St. Laurence, which are moftly white, and when they rife to the furface of the water, have the appearance of an hog fwimming. At night, if I may be allowed tlie' expreflion, without being accufed of an Iricifm, they caufe moft beautiful fire works in the water : for being in fuch abun- dance, and darting with amazing velocity, a continued flream of light glides through the water, and as fhoals of them frequently crofs each other, the luminous appearance is fo piclurefque, that no defcription can reach it.

On our entering the river St. Laurence, we faw, off the iiland of Anticofli, a great number of feals, one of which we caus;ht. This animal is generally ranked amongft the clafs of fifli, although produced on

land.

^O INTERIOR TRAVELS

land, and living more tliere than in water. Its head refembles that of a maftifF, it has four paws which are very fliort, efpecially the hinder ones, ferving rather to crawl, than to walk upon, and refembling fins • but the fore feet have claws ; the (km is exceeding hard and covered with fhort hair J they are firfl: white, but as they grow up turn to fandy or black, and fome of them are of three different colours.

There are tw^o forts, the larger weighing near two thoufand pounds, and have a fliarper fnout than the others. I have been told that the Indians have the art of taming thefe creatures, fo as to make them follow like a dog.

I am led to imagine they couple and bring forth their young on the rocks, from this reafon, wherein the powerful inftinft of nature fhewed itfelf very predominant- ly : one day, feveral large ones that had got

their

THROUGH AMERICA. 3I

their young on their backs, dropt them now and then into the water and took them up again, which no doubt, as being brought forth upon land, was to teach them to fwim ; it is not very furprizing, when it is coniidered this animal is amphi- bious : but the mode is exa6lly the fame, only changing the element, with that of the feathered creation, whofe little ones flutter from fpray to fpray, before they venture to fly abroad. The eagle carries her young, to train them up to encounter boifterous winds.

Thefe animals are caught on the coaft of Labrador. The Canadians go to this frozen and almofl uninhabitable coail, in the middle of Oftober, and remain there till June J their mode of catching them is by placing nets between the continent and a few fmall ifiands, where coming in fhoals from the eaft, in attempting to pafs thefe fbraights, they are caught -, they then con- vey

32 INTERIon TRAVELS

vey them to land, where they remain frozen till the month of May j the oil is then extra6led from them, and it is faid that feven or eight of thefe animals will yield a hogfnead. The ufe of its fiiin is fo generally known, it needs no de- fcription j its fleih is allowed to be very good, but if you had partaken of it, as I have done, you would coincide with me in opinion, that it turns to better account Y\rhen converted into blubber.

The tide goes a league beyond Trois Rivieres, which is thirty leagues higher up the river. .The difference of the tide at this place is generally between forty-five and forty-eight feet, but at the new and full moon, from fifty-four to fifty-feven, which is very confiderable.

The river is three quarters of a m.ile broad here, and ?s the fea water, though it does not come up immediately to the

town.

THROUGH AMERICA. 3^

tov/n, renders it fomewhat bracldih, the inhabitants make ule of it only for cuU- nary purpofes, having fpring water for tlieir beverage.

Ill failing up the river St. Laurence, the firft plantations you meet with are about fifty leagues on the fouth, and tvvrenty on the north fide of the river, below Quebec : they are but thinly fcattered, and their produce very indifferent. The fertile fields commence near the capital, which I am informed grow better, the nearer you ad- vance to Montreal.

About half way up the river, we came to the IJles aux OifeaiiXy and pafled them about the diftance of a cannon fhot ; they are two rocks that rife up in a conical form, about 60 feet above the furface of the water, the largeft of which appeared to be about two or three hundred feet in circum- ference; they are very near one another.

Vol. I. D and

34 INTERIOR TRAVELS

and there does not appear a fufHclent depth of water betv/een them for a fmall fhallop. It is diiiicult to fay what color thefe are of, as both furface and banks are entirely covered with the dung of the birds that refort thither j however, there were difcernable in places fome- veins of a reddifa caft.

One of the mates of the fliip faid he had been on them, and had loaded a fmall flial- lop with eggs, which v/ere of different forts, and that the flench ariiing from the dung was alm.oft infupportable. Befides the fea-gulls, and other fowls from the neighbouring lands, there is found a fpecies that cannot fiy. It appears to me wonderful, in fo prodigious a multi- tude of nefrs, how every one finds its own. At my requeft, the Captain of the Ihip fired a cannon (hot, which fpread the alarm over all this feathered common- wealth, vs^hen there arofc over the two

iflands

THROUGH AMERICA. 35

iflands a thick cloud of fowl, at leaft two or three leagues in circuit.

One material circumllance I forgot to mention to you, happened in our voyage to this place. In the middle of Augufr, after we had been incommoded for fevcral days v/ith excellive heats, one morning, foon after we got up, we felt fijch an in- tenfe cold, that both the Captain and my- felf were obliged to put on our great coats. We could by no mxeans imagine the caufe of this alteration, the weather being extremely fine, and particularly as the wind did not blow from the north. But on the third morning, juft before day-break, a failor called out with all his might, " luff, luff," which the man at the helm had fcarcely done, when an enormous piece of ice pafTed along-fide of the veiTel, v/hich infallibly mufi: have daflied her to pieces, had flie ftmck againft it. At day-break we faw it, when it appeared to be about fix times as D 2 large

3" INTERIOR TRAVELS

large as our lliip, and twice the heighth of its malls. You well know that only one third of ice, while fwimming, appears above water, and w^hen that is confidered, I do not wonder that the ignorant iliould not readily alFent to the relations given by travellers, of thefe frozen productions of nature.

Having already fwelled this letter be- yond its intended limits, and wifliing to avoid, as much as pofiible, being too dif- fufe on trivial fubjects, I fhall conclude it with my befl wilhes for your v/elfare and happinefs, affuring you that I araj with friendfhip and efleem.

Yours, £cG.

LET-

THROUGH AMERICA. 37

LETTER V.

Sluelec, 0^1. 2^th, 1 776, DEAR SIR,

A GREEABLE to my promlfe in a - former letter, I fliall now proceed in the defcription of the river St. Laurence, with fome occurrences which hefel us, previous to our arrival at Quebec.

One of the fineft bays to be met with in going up the river, is that of St. Paul, and as we v^ere under the neceiTity of an- choring oppofite to it, till the return of tide, I prevailed on the Captain to go on fliore.

D 3 Upon

38 INTERIOR TR AVELS

Upon our landing, the Frieft of the pariili came and invited us to his hovife, treating us with much hofpitaUty. He was a man rather advanced in years, a native of France, and pofieiTeid of great learning; he had been recommended by the French Court to the Bifhop of Quebec, while this province vv^as under tlicir go- vernment, and, as I am afraid is the cafe with too many well deferving charadlers, was poorly rewarded, by being made Prieit of this fmall parifli, for feme eiTential fer- vices he had rendered the French, v/hich, however, has many privileges annexed to it.

From the great veneration and refpecl that was fliev/n him, one would naturally conclude he was much beloved by his pa- ri fnioners, and his converfation turned upon making them happy, by inilru^ling them both in religious and moral duties, encouraging induiby, and divelling them

of

THROUGH AMERICA. 39

of thofe innate favage dlfpofitions, which, he obferved, the lower fort of Canadians are but too prone to.

It was impoflibic to fay which fliould be moil admired, his fmile of welcome, the neatnefs of the repair, or the hilarity of his converfation ; all of which gave me the greater pleafure, when put in contrail witli the other French Priefls I have met with, who are auflere and contra6led, and fo difgufi:ing, that rather than fit down with them, I would eat hay with my hcrfe.

This bay is about eighteen leagues be- low Quebec, containing only this fmall parifn, which is feme diftance from the fliore of the bay, on a low plain, formed by the river. It is furrounded v/ith ex- ceeding high mountains on every lidc, ex- cepting one large gap, which runs parallel to the river. The farms are at fome dif- tance from each ether, and the church is D 4 reckoned

40 INTERIOR TRAVELS

reckoned one of the mofl ancient in Ca- nada, which feeras confirmed by its bad ar- chitefturCj and the want of ornaments j the • walls are formed of pieces of timber, erect- ed at two feet diftanee, which fiipport the roof, and between thefe timbers the fpace is filled up with a kind of lime-Hate. The church has no fteeple, its roof is fiat, and above this rocf a bell is fixed in the open air. Moil of the country around this bay belongs to the Prieft, who lets it to the farmers.

The inhabitants chiefly live by agri- culture, and the profits arifmg from their commerce in tar, which they extract from the red pine, by making an incifion into the tree in the fpring of the year, when the fap is rifuig, and before the tree has Hopped running, it will produce feveral gallons of turpentine, which they eafdy manufacture into tar.

It

Through America. 41

It may be conjeftured, that the country iituated upon the bay of this river being low, it was originally part of the bottom of the river, and was formed either by the decreafe of water, or increafe of earth, car- ried from the brooks, or -thrown on it by ftorms, as a great part of the plants that grow here are marine. But in order fully to inform myfelf whether it was really as I apprehended, I enquired of feveral of the inhabitants, if ever they had found any iliells in digging, who anfwered, that they had never met with any thing but different iiinds of earth and fand.

There is one thing very remarkable, of which we had a proof: the wind is gene- rally different in the bay to what it is in the river, for upon failing into the bay we had as favourable a wind as could blow, but in the moment of entrance, it was di- reftly the reverfe, which is thus acounted for : the bay being furrounded on all f^des,

except

42 INTERIOR TRAVELS

except one, with high mountains, and covered with tall woods, when the wind comes from the river, it ftrikes againil fome of thefe mountains, where it is re- pelled, and confequently takes an oppofite direction.

The people who inhabit this bay, as likewife thofe fettled lower down the river, feem very poor 3 they have the necellaries of life in abundance, but debar themfelves of the comforts that ihould arife from^ them, living chiefiy upon bread and milk, and carrying t^eir other provifions, fuch as butter, cheefe, iiefh, poultry, eggs, &c. to market, where having difpofed of them, they purchafe cloatlis, brandy, and drefles for the women. Yet notwithftanding their pauvre manner of living, they are always chearful and in high fpirits.

Our objeci: on going on fhore was not fo much to gratify our curiofity, as to

procure

THROUGH AMERICA. 43

procure fome vegetables ; and as the Cap- tain of the fliip could not fpeali a word of French, as indifferent a Frenchman as you Imow me to be, I was obliged tO' be the interpreter on this occafion. I however made the inhabitants underirand me very well, till I alked for fome potatoes, by the ufual fchool term of pcmmes de terre^ and by which I underiland they are called in France; yet, notwithf!:anding the Cana- dians are allov/ed to fpeak as pure French as at Paris, I could not make them com- prehend what it was I v/anted, the man continually faying, Monfieur^ je fids hlen fache de ?ie pou'voir comprejidre ce que vous Jhiihailez^ at the fame time expreflinp- great uneafmefs, as I repeatedly afTured him, que fetois bienfurquil en avoit, which feemed to vex him ftill more. How- ever, in walking over his plantation, I happened to fee a parcel in the corner of a filed; pointing to them I faid, Vcila ce que je demande, upon which, with

great

44 r-KTEHIOR TRAVELS

great joy in his countenance, he ex- elaimed, Oh ! Moiijiew% ce font des futaf^ futat J adding, with great heartinefs^, ^'il etoit bien aife d'etre en etat de me fatis- faire. Upon my telling him, in Eng- land we called them pommes de terj-e^ he added, with a remark which I fhould wot have expelled, ^e ce nom leur corive-r wit inieux que tout autre. As I paid hini very liberally for the vegetables we had of him, he faid, with great exprcffioii of gratitude, Ah ! Monfiew\ je me fouvien-^ drai toiijoiirs de 'vos hordes et des pommes dd terre\

Canada, from the fertility of its foil, and the falubrity of its cHmate, you would naturally im^agine, contributed greatly to its own profperity ; bat thefe, as in mofl other fituations, are counterbalanced by its difadvantages. Canada has only one river for its exports and imports, and even this is fo blocked up v^ith ice, as not to be navi- gable

THROUGH AMERICA. ^5

gable during fix months, while heavy fogs render the navigation flow and difficult the remainder of the 'year. And although the produce of Canada is fuperior to that of the other provinces, flill the latter, not having fnnilar impediments to encounter, will alwavs have a decided advanta2:e over this, in the convenience of almoil uninter- rupted navigation.

The farm houfes are moftly built of timber, confifting of three or four rooms, and in one they have an iron flove, which is rendered fo hot, as to communicate fuf- ficient warmth to the reft. The roofs are covered with boards, and the crevices and chinks of the timbers are filled with elay, and their out buildings are thatched with ft raw;

Below the bay of Gafpey there is an ifland, called IJle Percee ; on your approach to it, it has tlie appearance of the frag-

nient

46 INTERIOR TRAVELS

ment of an old wall, being a fleep rocl< of about thirty fathoms in length, ten in heighth, and four in breadth, which the pilot told us was reported formerly to have joined Mont Joli, which flands oppofite to it upon the Continent. This rock has in the center of it an opening, in the form of an arch (through which a fmall fchooner might pafs in full fail) ; from which cir- cumilance, you will eafily imagine, it de- lives its name of IJle Percce.

The laft object that attrafts your atten- tion before you enter the harbour of Que- bec, is the ifie of Orleans, a moft beauti- ful large iiland, fituated in the middle of the river St. Laurence. It is feven leagues and a half long, and two broad, in the \yideft part, very high, with fnores ex- tremely fteep and vv'oody, though in fome places there is a gradual defcent to the river, and where that is the cafe, it is en- tirely free from woods, and upon thefe

fpots

THROUGH AMERICA. 47

fpots there are farm houfes clofe to the fliore.

The ifle itfelf is well cultivated, and the eye is continually amufed with large ftone houfes, corn fields, meadows, paflures and woods, with the addition of feveral good ftone churches, fome of v/hich ftand fo clofe to the river, and it being Sunday when we pafled the ifiand, that we heard them at mafs.

The river St. Laurence, till you come to this iiland, is m.oillv" four or five leagues in breadth, but after you pafs it, fliddenly narrows, fo as to be no more than a mile broad at Quebec, and from which circum- ftance this city derives its name, from, the Indian v/ord Quebeio, or Quebec, which fignifies a flrait or narrowing.

Shortly after we had palled this ifland, and turned Point Levy ; we entered the.

harbour.

4^ INTERIOR TRAVELS

harbour, which has the appearance of a large bay, for Point Levy ftretches itfelf out tov/ards the Ifle of Orleans, fo as to liide the fouth channel ; and that ifland projects fo as to conceal the north.

On entrance, you r.re ilruck with the grandeur and confufion and variety of objects that prefent themfelves: fronting is the city 5 on the right is the beautiful fall of Montmorency, and a view up the river St. Charles ; on the left there is an extenfive view up the river St. Laurence, and over the falls of Montmorency 5 a de- lightful profpect of feveral leagues round the country, interfperfed with the villages of Beauport, Charlebourg, &;c. a particular account of which I ihall give you in my ncxti

I am, yours, &c.

LET-

T rt R 6 u G H A ^i erica. 49'

b E T T E R YL

f^ehec, Q^lohvr z-jth, 1776.

MV BEAR FRIEND,

N my defcription of this province, you milft not expe6l a tirefome detail of diilances, or a romantic defcription of the country, but a few general obferva- tions, as I fhall pafs through the different parts of it, which are deferving notice.

This city, the capital of Canada, from the fmgularity of its fituation, boails of having that which no other city in the knov/n world pOiTeires, a frefli water har- bour, an hundred and twenty leagues from

Vol. I. E th^

so INTERIOR TRAVELS

the fea, capable of eontaining an hundred fhips of the line; it is built in the form of an amphitheatre, on the declivity of a pe- ninfula, formed by the rivers St. Laurence and St. Charles, and commands a profpect over extenfive fields, which appears richj lively and beautiful.

This city fuifered fo much during the long fiege, I aft winter, that it will by no^ means anfwer th-e beautiful defcription given by that elegant writer Mrs. Brookes, in her Emily Montague, for many houfes v^ere deftroyed for fuel, o-thers to prevent harbouring the enemy, and fhot and fliells C9i^tinuaily defacing and burning the reft,- you mull eafdy imagine, greatly contribute to deftroy all ideas of regularity.

The city is divided into two towns, dif- tinguiflied by the upper and the /owef\ which, during the fiege, were feparatedby a

ftrong

THROUGH AMERICA.' ^t

ftroiig ftockade, which proved extremely fortunate for us, as the enemy got into the lower town, but not being able to keep poiTeffion, they fet it on fire, and nearly deftroyed the whole of it.

There are two communications from the lower to the upper town, the one for car- riages, by aferpentine road up a very fleep ai'cent, and the other for foot palTengers, up a flight of fleps cut out of the rock.

The carriage road to the upper town, as well as the ftreets in general, are almoft impaiTable for either man or beail, never having been paved fince the liege, when the pavement was entirely torn up, that the fhells might bury themfelves in the ground before they burft, whereby they were rendered lefs dangerous.

The diilrefles of the inhabitants in a

befieged town, at all times are very great;

E 2 but

5S INTERIOR TRAVELS

but here they were rendered particularly fo, from the extreme feverity of the weather, being deprived of fuel, and com- pelled to refide in their cellars, as the only place that could afford them the leafh flielter.

The Governor's houfe fiands upon an high eminence, and being bomb-proof,, the family thought themfslves i]i perfect fecurity: from its elevation too, it was imagined to be out of the reach of cannon fliot. One evening, however, t]iey were rather unpleafantly convinced of their error^ by a fnot pafling through an ad- joining room to- that in which they were playing at cai'ds j this threw them into no little confufion, and obliged them to retire to that part of the houfe in which the other inhabitants were compelled to refidc.

You may remember, fome months be- fore my departure from England, that

Mr.

THROUGH AMERICA.' ^^

Mr. W— , who is a ifon vivanf, jocularly remarked, if he were confined to any fingle room, it fliould be the cellar j he was then at the Governor's, enjoying his favourite Vvdfh, happy as good company and good wine could make him, the found of eveiy 'Cannon being the fignal for a bumper.

A jVIajor who v/as here during the fiege, exprefled his aflonidiment to me that the place held out fo long, having an amazing feverity of weather, and numberlefs other difficulties to encounter; and that its fafety was entirely owing to the great exertions of General Carleton, who con- tinually encouraged the inhabitaiTts to aftion, for they chiefly compofed the ilrength of the garrifqn.

The fuburb of St. Fatixhoiirg is entirely

deftroyed, but that, as well as the lower

town, is now rebuilding, and when com-

pleated, nuifl add greatly to the beauty of

E 3 the

54 Interior travels

the city. There are feveral quays, and a convenient place for heaving down fhips to be repaired, called Cid de Sac, where tlie King's fhips lay up during the winter, to preferve them from danger upon the freezing and breaking up of the ice, vv^hich is more hazardous than you can imagine ; for unlefs the fhips are got into this Cul de Sac in proper time, they are very much damaged, and fometimes totally loft, by the amazing illands of ice that float down the river.

This city is at prefent badly accommor dated as to taverns, there being but one in the upper, and another in the lower town, both of them in the worft fhate imaginable ; for although they provide good dinners, the reft of the accommodations are fuch as would difgrace the meaneft public-houfe in London. No attendance whatever from fervants; no feperate apartments, and fifteen or twenty people are obliged to ; . fleep

THROUGH AMERICA, ^^

deep m one room, about a yard apart from each other J ufually deprived of natural reft in fuch vile dormitories, one fcarcely feels refreflied the whole day, and let me aflure you, fuice I have been here, I have not enjoyed a good night's repofe, from the fonorous mufic 1 am furrounded v/ith, arifmg from that natural and almoft uni- verfal wind infti'ument, the nofe. The owners of thefe taverns imagine, if they give good dinners and good wdne, they perform wonders. This, however, may be faid in their favour, as to accommodation, that this city has been for many months pad in a very deranged ilate, owing to the late fiege.

The Canadians of the higher ciafs are very polite and attentive to ftrangers ; a few days fmce, I was invited to dine with one of the principal merchants, cbez Mo?!- fieur Roherdeau) the dinner was entirely after the French failiion, and difplayed E 4 with

■50 .INTERIOR TRAVEL «

with much taile, but fuch was the per- yerienefs pf my Enghfh ftomach, that it could not rdiili one of their made difhes ; and although I endeavoured to' eat, out of compliment, the mailer of the houfe per- ceived I did not do it \yith any gudo 3 he then faid, Ah ! Monjieuy^ I'ous jie faites que 4'arrrijer dans ce pays -, qiiand vcus aurez ete avec Jious iin certain tems, vous aimerez beau- coup not re cuifme. ^e fids hi en f ache que dans ce moment il ne fe trouve rien a lotre gout, 7nais quand vous me ferez l'ho?2?teur de venir une autrefois chez moi^ faiirai Join d' avoir du

HOAST BEEF Ct du PLUME PUDDING qUC ks

Anglois aiment tant. When the defert came, whichwas before the cloth was removed, I made amends for mv not being: able to eat

■J o

at dinner, which the mailer of the houfe pbferving, faid. Ah I Morijieur^ ce ncjl pas que vous ne vous Jouciez pas dcs viandes^ mats c.efi que vous etes un pcu ccmmc ks enfans^ vous aimez les friandifes -, v/hen, fearful Icil I fhould be difpleafed at his raillery,, with

a polite-

♦THROUGH AMERICA. 57

a politenefs truly French, he filled his glalSj and added, Alloiis, Monfmir^ verfez et yive le Roi d'Angkterre,

Fearful of lofnig tKe opportunity that now prefents itfelf of conveying this to Eagland, I have but.juft time fubfcribe myfelf.

Yours, &c.

LET-

'5$ INTERIOR TRAVELS

LETTER VIL

^ebec, OBober ^Oth, 1 776, MY DEAR FRIEND,

'np^HE hafty conclufion I was obliged to "^ put to my lail, having prevented me from entering fo fully into the defcription of this city as I had intended, I nowtranf- mit to you fome further particulars rela^ live to its fiege, and the, religion of its in^ habitants.

The caufeway by which General Mont-* gomery made his attack, is not more than twenty-four feet wide j on one fide is a lofty perpendicular rock, and on the other a fteep precipice, without any fence, dov/n

to

THROUGH AMERICA. 59

to the liver ; this caufeway was defended by two ftrong barriers, and w^ere I induced to give an opinion, nothing but a defperate effort could juftify the attack. The event fatally proved it s for upon the advance of the enemy, the firfl: barrier w^as aban- doned, y/hich, after they had broke down, fiuflied with fuccefs, and the hopes of eafily gaining the upper town, they ruilied on (with an intrepidity that might expe6l every thing from their valor) to the fe- cond barrier, \\iiere two pieces of cannon were concealed, and upon their approach were immediately fired, when great num- bers of them w^ere killed and wounded, and in their retreat many fell down the precipice i this defeat greatly contributed to put an end to the fiege, the termi- nation of which, liad nearly been fruf- trated, by the eager impetuofity of the failors, who were pofted with thofe guns, as they could fcarcely be reilrained from firing them when the enemy attacked the

firfl

i)0 INTERIOR TRAVELS

flrft barrier, which, if they had done, tlic flaughter would not have been fo great, nor the enemy perhaps have loft their brave Commander. But by the threats of the officers upon duty at that poft, the guns were not fired till the enemy were within a few yards of thern j and as they advanced abreaft, as many as the caufev/ay would admit of, you may eafily conceive what havoc there muft have been amongft them.

In this daring enterprize fell a nian, who lived long enough to eftabliih a reputation, Nl'C pGterlt fcrrum^ ncc edax aholere vetujlas, quod nee yovis ira ncc ignis^ as no doubt it will be handed down by the Americans to' the lateft ages. He died too foon for the fupport of that uri natural faction, to which, from miftaken principles, he was deeply attached; and being a man wor- thy of fome notice, you lliall know the little hiftory I have been able to collecl of him.

la

THROUGH AMERICA. 6l

In the latl war he was an officer in ov.r fei*vice, and diftinguillied himfelf in feveral inflances. At the peace he came over to this country, and married an American kdy, where by his condu6l and agreeable manners, he was refpecled as much as if lic had been a native j and being, from his marriage and long refidence in the countiy, confidered as a man fit to be trufled with a command, he was appointed Brigadier Ge- neral by the Congrefs j this commiffion he wiflied to decline, feeling a compunftion, as a native of Great Britain, and once in the King's fervice, to bear arms againfl: his Sovereign. His wavering inclination ^yas unfortunately fubdued, by the over- perfuafion of a fond wife, whom he loved moft afFeftionately, and the importunate folicitation of his relations and friends. When he had taken a decided part, his condu6l fully correfponded with the high opinion that had been formed of his abi- lities and fidelity. No one who lived fo

fhort

62 INTERIOR T?. AVELS

fhort a time in their employ, could render them more important fervices, or do their caufe more honor.

When he had been induced to facrifice the happinefs he enjoyed in private life, and enter into the fervice of the Congrefs, he was then abfolved from all viev/s ad- verfe to their party (of which he had been fufpe6led) and conlidered as a man who took a part in the caufe from confcience and principle. In this light he was viewed while living, and fpoken of when dead. He had the fingular felicity of being equally elleemed by the friends and foes of the party he efpoufed j the latter acknowledg- ed his vi^orth, though they reprobated the caufe in which he fell. To the praife of General Carleton, his remains were, by the General's order, interred with all mi- litary honors.

An

THROUGH AMERICA. 63

Very iliortly after this repulfe, an American foldier, in attempting, to ftep out of his batteaiix, at Wolfe's Cove, fell into the water, and catching hold of a flake of ice that was floating down the river, he got upon it, and was carried down the ftream. As he pafled Quebec dole to the fliore, he was feen by a cen- tinel, who obferving a man in diflrefs, called out for help, when numbers flew to his afliflance, and found him motionlefs ; by the help of fpirituous liquors, with fome difficulty they brought him to life for a moment, and jufl: recovering fpeech enough to tell them, that the city would not long be in our poflefTion, he inftantly expired.

A mile from the city is a Convent, that was once poiTefTed of a beautiful garden, but this, as well as their chapel, v/ith the images and other ornaments of their reli- gion, are greatly injured. The enemy,

after

64 INTERIOR Travels

after taking poiTeffion of the Convent^ converted it into an hofpital, and com- pelled the nuns to attend upon their fick and wounded ; and what was flill more perfecuting to their religion than to their willies, fever al of the nuns, after they had abandoned it, proved capable of in fome meafure making up for the ravages of war, by producing what may in future become the ftrength and fupport of their country.

There are feveral churches in each town, but thofe in the upper are the moil mag- nificent, and have failained the leaft da- mage. The largeft of thefe churches, and what may be termed the cathedral, has nothing worthy of notice, except a hand- fom.e fteeple; it is entirely roofed with ilate, and is the only building I obferved that has this advantage, they being all covered with fhingles. It is much orna- mented in the infide -, the galleiy is bold,

light,

THROUGH AMERICA. 6^

light, and well wrought, furrounded witli an hon balluftrade, painted and gilt, of curious workmanfliip J one thing, how- ever, appears very fmgular, that the pulpit is likewife gilt, and feems to have had more labor bellowed i/pori, than it is ever likely to have withifi it ; there are three altars hanclfomely defigned, and fome good pictures ; it is without any dome or cu- pola, having only a flat ceiling, very curi- oufly ornamented ; it is not as in moft ^Cathedrals, paved with ftone, but floored with planks, which makes this church the more fupportable in winter j in others you are generally flai*ved to death with cold. After the Romifli fervice is over, on a Sunday, the Governor, with the offi- cers and foldicrs of the garrifon, and the Proteftant inhabitants of the city, re- fort thither to their worfliip. This little circumfcance I mention to you, as the palTmg of the Quebec bill made fuch a noife in England 5 clearly to fiiew there Vol. I. F is

66 INTERIOR TRAVELS

is no animofity among the inhabitants, on the fcore of rehgion. Where the Cana- dians, who conftitute the principal part of the inhabitants of this province, did not interfere with our religion, I cannot but think it was a very neceflary and politic ftep in Government to tolerate theirs ; as at the time tlie bill palled, it was judged proper to make this facrifice to them, in order to gain their afFe6lions, which feem- ed to be wavering, whether they fliouid not join the other provinces in rebellion againft England,

For my ovv^n part, I am led to imagine, from the converfation I have had with fe- veral of the principal inhabitants, they never were in the leaft apprehenfive of their religion being fiipprefied, but that idea was inftilled into their minds by fome party at home, who, I am forry to obferve, are more dangerous than any enemy we can pofiibly have abroad.

With

tiiROUGH AMERICA* 67

With all the advantages of the laws of our conftitution, the toleration of their religion, and the bleflings of liberty, the Canadians are by no means well affe8:ed to the Englilh Government, but have a flrong propenfity to be under the protec- tion of the French ; and, I am confident, would aflift the Americans, had we not fuch a povv^erful force in this province*

The garrifon of this city, and a few inhabitants at Montreal, are ftaunch to the intereils of Government 5 for their fidelity and courage have been proved; upon the commencement of the fiege, the General ordered every one out of the city, that he could entertain the lead fuf- picion of, none of v/hcm have fince made their appearance.

The army is now returning from the

Lakes, and at prefent the garrifon confifts

of Colonel Maclean's regiment, and the

F 2 recruits

6S ULTERIOR TRAVELS

recruits lately arrived from England j the 34th regiment is daily expe6led, as the army is getting into v^inter quarters. Ge- neral Carleton and General Burgoyne are both here, the latter of whom fails for England in a few days.

My friend Captain W — ri, who is em- barking for that country where my fondeil wifhes are placed, will deliver you this : he has juft called upon me for my letters. I muft therefore conclude. You iliall hear from me by the latefc lliip that fails.

Yours, &c.

LET-

THROUGK AMERICA. 69

LETTER VIII.

^lehec, Nov. \th, 1 776, MY DEAR FRIEND,

VISITING two or three of the vil- lages round this city, has enabled me to give you fome little defcription of the country and its inhabitants.

About Charlebourg and Beauport it is rather champaign^ but becomes more woody towards Lorette. The farm houfes inter- fperfed about the country are very nu- merous, and being generally whitened on the outfide, form a neat and pifturcfquc appearance : their houfes moflly confifl of one floor, very few having a ftory to them, which gives rife to the idea, that the Ca- F 3 nadian§

70 INTERIOR TRAVELS

nadians will tell 3. flory well, though they never make one.

You would be pleafed to find them extremely neat in their houfes, very at- tentive to their cattle, and careful of the ilock on their farms. They are at pre- fent employed in cutting and ^Qttmg in wood for the winter, for themfelves and tlie market, for though it is fo early, there has been a fevere fall of fnow j wood-cut- ting continues all this month, and in De- cember, when the winter is fet in, it is car- ried into the city upon fleighs over the fnow, being a much eafier conveyance than with carts, as the roads are fo intolei^ably bad.

The Canadians in general are a fwarthy people, and low in flature^ their drefs confifts of a kind of jacket, and vv^hen the Vv^eather is cold, a blanket coat, which they faflen round them with a woriled fafh. They moflly wear a woollen cap,

but

THROUGH AMERICA. 7I

but In the cold weather a fur one, and have amazhig long queues, of which they ai'e exceedingly proud. They are fel- dom or ever found without a pipe in their mouths, a habit which they acquire in their very infancy. I was much furprized upon going into one of their houfes, in which there was a large family, moftly boys, to find, that from the youngell up to the father, they all fmoalvcd ; nay, one of three years old had a pipe in his mouth. Their ufual mode of living being chiefly milk and vegetables, which, joined to the number of the fafl days impofed on them by their religion, renders them a very pieagre and flender people.

The women are extremvdy lively, good- natured and obliging, and very neat in their perfons, but have not the lead pre- tenfion to beauty. The men are far fronr agreeable, for fmcc they have enjoyed the blellings of an Englifli Government, they F 4 are

72 INTERIOR TRAVELS

are become infolent and overbearing, eafily offended, and when they fancy themfelves fo, their cry is, 'Je ^ais le dire an General Carleton j and the General is of that good- natured, affable difpofition, that he alw^ays liflens to their complaints, and is conti- nually plagued and tormented w^ith fome of the moft trivial nature, by thefe trouble- fome and tenacious people, for they con- ceive their Governor is bound to hear them, efpecially their Seigneurs, or Lords of the village -, it is a title you have not among you, but I aiTure you thofe v^ho poilefs it here, fancy themfelves of no little importance, and aiiiame more confequence than the firft peer in England.

Thefe Seigneurs are defcendants of thofe officers and gentlemen who firft fettled, and had grants in this province, when Canada was only a vaft foreft ; who, not being pro- per perfons to cultivate it themfelves, nor pollelled of a fufficient fund to pay labour- ers.

THROUGH AMERICA. 73

ers, let out the grounds at a very {lender quit rent ; fo that with the fines, which were here very Imall, and what is called the Dt'oit du Moulin^ & Metairie, a lord- fnip, which confifts of two leagues in front, and an unlimited depth, can yield them no great revenue; and there are many planters on their manors, who by their induftry have become wealthier than the owner himfelf ; notwithfiianding which they ftand in great awe of thefe Seigneurs^ as they are defcended from an- tient nobility in France, the forefathers of whom were permitted by Louis XIV. to exercife commerce as well by fea as land, without queftion, interruption, or dero- gating from their quality and rights ; and to you, who fo well know the French, I need not fay in what manner any one de- fcended from nobility condu6ls himfelf, jand the hauteur he treats every one with.

About

74 INTERIOR TRAVELS

About three leagues from this city is a nation of Indians, who live at a fmall vil- lage called Indian Lorette : they are quite civilized, have a church, go regularly to niafs, and are extremely ingenious in making; bead ornaments.

^t)

Thefe Indians, who are really Chriilians, of the Romiih perfuafion, have a chapel built nearly on the model, and of the fame dimenfions as that I have heard you relate you met with in Italy, of Santa Cafa, and, as in that, have an image of the Virgin, which, upon enquiry, appears to be a copy of that very ilatue. Whether it was the efFeft of imagination, devotion, or of any other caufe, I cannot fay, but upon at- tending the chapel, I was feized v/ith an inward and facred terror, of which I can give no account. The folid piety of the Indians, (whom we are taught to be- lieve fo naturally ferocious, as no edifi- cation, religious or moral, can overcome)

added,

THROUGH AMERICA. 75

added to the doomv horror of tiic fitua- tion, made a violent impreffion upon me, which became the more flrong, upon ob- ferving the fervor and modelly which they difplayed in their devotions.

Thefe Indians had a great number of dogs v/ith them, which feems to be the only domeftic animal they breed; they are trained up for hunting, and are equal to any hounds j appearing to be all of one fpecies, having upright ears, of dark brindled color, with a long fnout, like that of a wolf. None of our Englifh dogs are more remarkable for their fidelity, which is rather to be wondered at, being but very ill fed, and never carellcd by themi.

As hereafter, and no doubt before my return to England, I Ihall meet with many Indians of different nations, cuftoms and

manners.

76 INTERIOR TRAVELS

manners, give me leave to make a few re- flexions upon thefe favages, as tliey are called, and civilized man.

In regard to the former, their origin and antiquity is quite uncertain 5 the only matter, therefore, to be confidered is, v^he- ther thefe untutored nations are more or lefs happy than us ? Whether they, who are in the condition of man left to mere animal inllinft, pafiing their lives in hunt- ing, feeding, producing their fpecies, and repofmg themfelves, do not pafs a life of more felicity than ours, who can enjoy every luxury of life, and vary our indulg-:. cnces and wants in a thoufand ways ,^

It is in our nature and difpofitions, that we muil look for the means of happincfs. Wherein then does it confift? Prefent fub- fiftence, and (which I think there can be none fo hardened as not to have) a thought of futurity, and the hopes of enjoying

every

THROUGH AMERICA. 77

bleffing that is attendant on it. The fa- vage never is in want ; he lays in no ftores, becaufe the earth and waters are refervoirs to fupply them. Fifli and game are to be had all the year. The favage has no houfc to fecure him from the inclemency of tlie external air, or commodious fire places, his furs anfwering all thefe purpofes. His labor is but for his own benefit j he Oceps when he is weary, and is a ftranger to refl- lefs nights. Little does he experience wearinefs that arifes from unfatisfied de- fires, or that uneafmefs of mind which fprings from prejudice or vanity. As far as I can perceive, the Indian is fubjeft to no evils but thofe infiicledby nature.

In what manner then do we enjoy a greater happinefs ? Our food may be more wholefome and delicate, our cloaths may be fofter, and our habitations fecure us better againft the weather ; but then ob- ferve the comm»on people, who are the fup-

port

yS Ix\T£RIOR TRAVELS

port of civil fociety ; the number of men who in all ilates bear the burthen of labor 5 can they be faid to be happy, who, by the luxuiy and police of their governments, are reduced to a flate of fervitude ? And to what outrages are thofe in a higher fphere expofed to ? If you are pofTelTed of any property, you know not how far it may be called your own, but muft, in all probability, divide the produce between the lawyer, in teaching you how to preferve it, and the coilector, who comes to levy un- limited taxes. If you have no property, how can you be afTured of a permanent fubfiftence ? What induftry or invention is fecure againfl the vicifTitudes of fortune, or the encroachment of others.

In the foreits of America, if there is any fcarcity in the north, the favages bend their courfe to the fouth ; but in our civilized ftates, we are conhned williin certain li- mits, where if famine, or\yar, or peflilence,

with

THROUGH AMERICA. 79

with all their concomitant horrors, flioiikl befal us, all mull participate.

It certainly is apparent to every one, that injuitice prevails in the partial dif- tribution of fortunes and ftations, which muft be the eiTe6l and the caufe of opprcf- fion. In vain does ciiftom, prejudice, ignorance, or hard labor, fbupify thofe of the lower clafs, fo as to render them in- fenfible of their degradation ; it is not in the pov/er of religion or morality to hin- der them from feeing and feeling the ar- rangements of policy, in the diftribution of what we call good and evil ; and, no doubt, you muft have often heard a poor man expoftulating with heaven, " What have I done, that I fnould deferve to be born in fuch an indigent and dependent fituation ?"

The reafon v/e prefer our condition to that of the favages is, becaufe civilization

has

So INTERIOR TRAVELS

has rendered us incapable of bearing feme natural hardlliips, which they can endure ; and {imply that we are attached to fome indulgence cuftom has made neceffary to us. As a proof of this aiTertion, and how a civilized man may habituate himfelf to the iociety of favages, and return to this ftate of nature, let me relate the fituation of a Scotchman, who v^^as call: away upon the Ifland of Fernande%^ where he lived alone > his only enjoyments confifted in fupplying his wants, and to fuch a pitch had his ideas of happinefs raifed themfelves, that he for- got his country, his language, his name, and even the articulation of words. And after a banilliment of four years, from the burthens of focial life, he had loft all thought of the paft, or anxiety for the future.

One of the firft principles we imbibe, one of the firft inftinfts of man, is a confcioufnefs of independence; and no

doubt

T H R O U G li A M E R I C A. 8 I

doubt but you niuft have obferved, that the mail who pofTefles a competent lubfill- ence is incomparably happier than the rich m?ji, wilo is retrained by prejudices and fafhipns, which inceilantly are reminding him of the lofs of his hberty, and which too frequently are the occafion of tiie raih and fatal acl of fuicidc.

In comparing tlie ftate of the favages to that of children, the queflion may eafdy be decided, which has been fo warmly in debate among the moil learned men, " whe- ther the ftate of nature has the advantage over that of focial life?" And you, no doubt, will readily allow, that your Hate of chiidliood, notwithftan ding the reflraint of education, was the happiefl: period of your life. Nothing furely can more clearly indicate the happinefs that children feel, than that habitual chearfulnefs they de- monftrate, vv^hen not under the fchool- mafter's rod.

Vol. I. G After

$2 I^NTERIOR TRAVELS

After all, a fmgle word may determine this great queftion. Let us aik the civil- ized man if he is happy j and the favage whether he is unhappy ? If they both anfwer in the negative, there is an end of the difpute.

How mortifying mufi this parallel be to civilized nations ? And the more painful the refleftion, as it awakens the feelings to the caufe of their fufFerings j no doubt but they will one time or other be con- vinced from whence it arifes — from the confufion of their opinions, from the de- fects of their political conflitutions, and from the eapricioufnefs of their laws,- v/hich ever are in continual oppofition to- the laws of nature. But for fear you think I am growing too fententious, I Ihall return to my defcription of this pro- vince.

The

THROUGH AMERICA. 83

The woods of Canada abound with a lai'ge kind of rabbits, which are of a browu color in the fummcr, and turn white in the winter, one of the ciFe6ls of the ex- treme cold or fnow that prevails in this climate j we found likewife vaft quantities of partridges, much larger than ours, which the Canadians call pheafants -, there are two forts of them, the fpruce and the pine : the meat of the former is very delicious, to thofe Vvho are fond of the flavor of the fpruce. The m.arket at this place is well fupplied with all kind of provifion, fifh and vesietables in abundance.

The place bed adapted to repay the la- bours of the hufbandiTian, are pointed out to him by the fpontaneous productions of nature ; wliere the pine, the fir-tree, and the cedar grow folitarily, there he finds only watry and fandy grounds : but wherever the foil is covered v/lth maple, oak, beech, yoke, elm, hickory, and fmall G a cherry-

84 INTERIOR TRAVELS

cherry-trees, there he is certain to meet with a reward for his trouble of clearincr away the woods, and may expeft a great increafe, v/ithout the difhculty of ma- nui'ing.

Being informed that the pacquet fails this afternoon, and having feveral otlier letters to write, a further account of this province mufl be delayed till my next ; and in hopes you will pai'don my breaking oft fo abruptly, and leaving you in a ilate of fufpence, I remain,

Yours, &c.

LET-

THROUGH A ME RICA. 85

LETTER IX, ,

^ebec, No-vember ^th, 1776.

MV DEAR FRIEND^

BLIGED to conclude mylafl rather hailily, 1 fliall refume my obferva- tions on this province, without any apo- logy.

Mofl: of the plantations in Canada are fufhcient to fupply the wants of their re- fpeclive owners, and there are few of them that do not yield pye, mciize, barley, flax, hemp, tobacco, pulfe and pot-herbs, in great abundance, and thofe of an excellent xjuality.

G X It

86 INTERIOR TRAVELS

It is capable of furnifiii ng many articles for a trade witli the Weil Indies, which was wholly neglected, v/hilii this province was under the French Government j but fince in our pollellion, great quantities of flour, planks, and timber, proper for build- ing, have been exported to them : and as there is perhaps no country in the v/hole world which produces m.ore forts of wood, or of a better quality, you may eafdy judge v/hat immenfe riches may be drawn from thence, it ccnfiiling principally of Vv^ocds.

I know not whether giving you an ac- count of the extenfive foreils of Canada, v/ill afford you any entertainment ; but when I inform you that they have the ap- pearance of being as ancient as the VN^orld itielf, and v/ere never planted by the hand of man, I think you will find fome amufe- ment in the defcription of them.

On

THROUGH AMERICA. $7

On my firfl arrival in this country, I was ilruck with the loftincfs of the pines, fir- trees, and cedars, which are of a fize per- feftly ailoniihing. There are two forts of pine, both of them yielding turpentine. The white pines produce, on their upper <2Xtremities a kind of muiliroom, which the Canadians adminifter in cafes of the dyfen- tery. The red pines contain more turpen- tine, are heavierj and do not grow to fuch a thicknefs ; but where they fiourifli, the land is reckoned very good to raife porn.

There are feveral fpecies of fir-trees, which rife to a great height, are excellently calculated for mafts, as well as every fort of 'carpenter's work.

There are two forts of cedars too, the

white and red, the former of which grows

the thickeft, and the odour is in its leaves ;

whereas, in the latter, tlic odour is in the

G 4 v/ood,

88 INTERIOR TRAVELS

wood, and far more agreeable. Of thefe trees the Canadians make palings, but moftly iliingles for covering their houfes, from its extreme lightnefs.

All over Canada are two forts of oak j the white grows in low fwampy grounds, the red in dry fandy lands.

There are three forts of walnuts; the hard, the foft, and another with a thin bark. The hard fort bear a fmall nut, very good to eat, but apt to occafion coftivenefs, the wood of which is only fit to burn. The tender bears a large fruit, with a hard fhell, the kernels of which are excellent : the v/Dod of this tree is fnigularly curious, being almoft incorruptible in water or in the ground, and difficult to confume in the fire : of this wood the Canadians make their coffins. The third fort pro- duces a nut which is exceedingly bitter,

but

THROUGH AMERICA. 89

but yields an excellent oil, ufed by the in^ habitants for their lamps.

Beech and elm trees are in great abun- dance -y and in the thickeft woods are found vafl numbers of cherry and plumb-trees.

There are an infinite number of others, but as I am no Botanlfl, you will pardon my giving an account of what is here in fuch variety, that perfons who have taken the moil unremitting pains to difcover them, have not been capable of defcribing half their number, I fliall conclude this heavy detail of trees, with that of the maple, which boails of m^any excellent qualities.

The maple tree yields in great quantities a liquor which is cool and refreiliing, with an agreeable flavor. The Canadians make a fugar of it, a very good peftoral, and ufed for coughs. There are many

trees

^O INTERIOR TRAVELS

tr€es that yield a liquor they can convert into fugar, hut none in fuch abundance as the maple. You v/ill no doubt be fur- prized to find, in Canada, what Virgil pre- di6led of the Golden Age, Et dura quercm fudabiint rafcida mella.

The flock of the farming part of the inhabitants in this province, confifts gene- rally of about a fcore or two of Iheep, ten or tvi^elve cows, and five or fix oxen for the plough 5 the cattle are fmall but excellent, and the people, fmce they have been under the Englifh Government, live in a degree of cafe and happinefs unknown to the. country people in England, and are now improving their farms and enriching them-* felves very faft. Before the commence- ment of the war, they ufed to export vaft quantities of wheat and all forts of grain, to the other provinces and the Wefl India idands -, but Vv^hen under the French Go- vernmeni:, they were fo oppreffed by their

Seigneurs^

THROUGH AMERICA. 91

Seigneurs, that they never raifed more grain than would ferve themfelves and the l^ock on their farms j whenever they did, it was generally claimed by the Seig-news for the ufe of Government. The Cana- dians were at that time a veiy indolent {tt of people: now they reap the fweets of their induftry, and are quite the reverfe.

I went yeflerday to view the Fail of Montmorency, which is really beautiful. The breadth of it is not above ten or twelve yards, and its perpendicular height one hundred and twenty feet ; by the vio- lent fall of fuch an immenfe body of wa- ter, there is ahvays a thick fog of vapors, which occafions a continual rain, for fome diflance round the bottom. Anxious to examine it as minutely as polTible, I ap- proached within tvv^clve yards of the Fall, when a fudden gufc cf wind blew liich a thick fog off the fpray, that in lefs than a minute I was as wet as if I had walked half

an

92 INTERIOR TRAVELS

an hour in a heavy fliov\^er, which, hov;r ever, did not prevent ray endeavouring to fatisfy my curiofity, for I perfevered, in hopes of accomphihing my vvifli, w^hich, like many of our ardent purfuits, did not bring me that recompence I had flattered myfeif it would -, for having obtained the purport of my intention, inftead of the beautiful appearance I had pi6tured to my imagination, to be difcerned between the rock and the immenfe body of water that . was falling from fuch a prodigious height, I found myfeif enveloped in a very thick fog of fpray, fcarcely able to fee my hand when extended, and where, in all proba- bility, if I had continued five minutes, and the wind changed, I was in danger of being drowned. The noife occafiojied by the fall was {o great, that an officer who was v/ith me was obliged tofpealv as loud as he could, to make me underftand any thing he faid. It is fometimes heard at Quebec, which is two leagues diftant to the fouthward, and

when

THROUGH AMERICA. 93

when that i§ the cafe, it is the fign of an approaching ftrong north-eafi: wind.

One thing remarkable is, that this plen- tiful fall cf water, which never dries up, one v/ould imagine, mud proceed from fome fine river : but it is quite the reverfc, it being only a puny ftream, which in fome places is fcarcely iiitticient to cover the ankle ; it fiovrs, however, conilantly, and derives its foiu'ce from a pleafant lake, twelve leagues diftant from the falls.

I have vi£ted the plains of Abraham, to fee the remains of the enemy's encamp- ment, and could not help contrafling thofc who had fo lately abandoned that place, witlr the poiTeiibrs of it when the brave Wolfe fell ! Nor was it poliible to fupprefs a figh to the memory of that gallant ofiicer, who, at {o early a period in life, had ac- quired the eileem and admiration of all mankind. While in the very arms of death,

he

04 i N I' E R I O R T R A V E L 4

added glory and conqueil to the Britifll empire.

Nor could I help lamenting, at the fanie time, the fate of an omcer of confiderable merit, though an enemy, the brave Mont- gomery, who com^manded the troops that had fo lately abandoned this encampment, and of whom I have already fpoken : he polfefied all the fire of military ardor, rullied with impatience in the front of every danger, and met his death, " e'en at the cannon's mouth," where he unfortu- nately fell a facrifice to miftaken principles, unnatural rebellion, and the ambitious

views of a few defigning men. His

courage and death would have done honor to a better caufe.

The people in this city are making pre^ perations for the winter, and you would think it impOiTible they could confume the amazing rafts of timber that are already

floated

THROUGH AMERICA. 9^5;

floated down the river j but I am inform- ed they arc a ver}^ inconliderabie part of what are expected.— It is not in the ieaft furpdzing they were obliged to pull down houfes for fuel laft winter, darinrc the fie":e.

-t>'

Europeans muft form a terrible idea of the intenfe cold of this country, from the preparations the Canadians tal^e to guard agninil it- for the inhabitants are parting paper round their windows, and every crevice v/here they imagine the leafl cold will penetrate.

Inflead of fire-places they make ufe of iron ftoves, which muft be extremely un- healthy J a fev/ days fnice I went into a room when there was a fire in one of them, and had not been there above five minutes, when I v/as feized with a mod: intolerable hcad-ach, which I can only attribute to the fulphurcous air that pro- ceeds

96 INTERIOR TRAVELS

ceeds from thefe floves j and, for my own part, imagine they are the occafion of the Canadians having fuch fallow complexions ; but cufcom, which in fome meafare over- comes all prejudices, will no doubt recon- cile me to them.

The fliips are all preparing to fail for England, left the river fliould freeze up.

I have been this afternoon upon the ramparts, to fee the Apollo frigate drop dov/n, in which General Burgoyne fails for England ; who, I am perfuaded, has the fmcere and ardent wiflies of all ranks in the army, for his fafety and happy ar- rival. The General joins to the dignity of office, and ftrict attention to military difcipline, that conlideration, humanity, and mildnefs of manners, which muft ever endear him to all who have the happinefs to be under his command i for my own part, I fliall pray v/ith Shakefpear, " that

the

THROUGH AMERICA. 97

the winds of all the corners may kifs the fails, and make his veliel profperous."

I remained on the ramparts to take the laft look of the Apollo, who, with a fteady and favourable breeze, failed magnificently down the river, and was foon out of fight. You cannot guefs how it affefted me ; fhall I confefs that more than once I wifhed myfelf on board her : it was fuch a fight as mufl: awaken the mind to all its na- tural attachments. But that I may not think too much of country and friends, at this time, I fhall haftily conclude myfelf,

Yours, &c.

Vol. I. H LET-

98' INTERIOR TRAVELS

LETTER X.

Montreal 3 No'v ember \.6th, i'j'j&, MY DEAR FRIEND,

A F T E R a tedious inarch of near three "^ ^ weeks, which for a young foldier is a pretty good initiation into the toils of his profellion, I am fafe arrived at this place.

As we could not march many miles in a day, through the feverity of the weather, bad roads, and the fhortnefs of the days, I am. enabled to give you fome little de- fcription of the country between this city and Quebec.

Both

THROUGH AMERICA. 99

Both fides of the river are veiy well fettled, which affords a pleafmg profpect. The farms moftly lie clofe to the water- fide, and at fome diftance from each other, fo that each farm.er has his pofTefTions en- tirely dlftincl from thofe of his neigh- bour's. But had an edi61:, which was paffed in the year 1745, when this pro- vince was under the French Government, been obferved, it would have been one con- tinued ftreet from Quebec to this place, as it forbade the Canadians from extending their plantations more than an acre and a half in front, and thirty or forty acres in depth ; by which means indolent heirs w^ould not have waited for the inheritance of their fathers, as they would have been under the neceffity of forming new plan- tations, and fach vail fpaces of wood w;ould no longer have feparated them from each other.

H 2 But

lOO INTERIOR TRAVELS

But whether that indolence they then pofleired proceeded from nature, or the rigor of their Government, they feem now to have entirely lofb it, and are become more induflrious ; as I perceived, in many places, they were clearing away the woods to form new plantations.

Mofl: of the farm houfes are built of Hone, confiding of three or four rooms, wliich are heated with a fl:ove, nearly upon the fame conftru6lion as thofe I defcribed to you. Some of them have orchards annexed, tliough in general they are without fuch an accommodation, but all have exceeding good kitchen gar- dens.

Every three leagues there is a church, with a kind of little village, confifting of the parfonage, the aiiberge^ the fchool for boys and girls, and a few houfes belong- ing to tradefmen, thofe but few indeed,

and

THROUGH AMERICA. lOI

and fo thinly fcattered, that it fcarcely gives you the idea of a village. Trade is confidered by any defeendant of the noblejfe a difgrace, yet there are few inhabitants but what claim fome affinity to one Seig- neur or another, who, though they think it no derogation to plough, fow, and reap upon their plantations, deem it ignomi- nious in the extreme, to be a mechanic or tradefman. Notwithftanding which, I was much furprized to find, that the principal inhabitant in each village, who generally belongs to fome noblejfe^ was the poft-mafter, and kept the only Auherge in the place j nay, did not think his nobility offended, with providing horfes and enter- taining travellers, which I remember to have heard you fay is the cafe in many parts of Italy.

Between each church, or village, there

are feveral crolTes put up on the road-fide,

parallel to the fnores of the river, and

H 3 which

102 INTERIOR TRAVELS

which are common throughout Canada. They are made of wood, about fifteen or twenty feet high, and proportionably broad : In that fide towards the road is a fquare hole, in which they place fome wax images, either of our Saviour on the crofs, or of the holy Virgin, with the child iii her arms, and before that, a piece of glafs to prevent its being injured by the weather. Thefe crofTes are ornament- ed with all the inftruments they think the Jews employed in crucifying our Saviour, fuch as the hammer, tongs, nails, a fiaik of vinegar, \vith many more things than one. would fappofe were really made ufe of, or even invented ; and frequently the figure of a cock is placed at the top, which appeared to me rather fmgular, as it could have not the leaft affinity to the crucifixion, and mufl rather be fuppofed an allufion to the cock's crowing when St. Peter denied our Saviour.

Thefe

THROUGH AMERICA. IO3

Thefe crofles, however good the inten- tion of creeling them may be, are con- tinually the caufes of great delays in tra- velling, which to perfons not quite fo fuperftitioufly difpofed as the Canadians, are exceedingly unpleafant in cold weather ; for whenever the drivers of the calafhes, which are open, and nearly fimilar to your one horfe chaifes, come to one of them, they alight, either from their horfes or carriage, fall on their knees, and re- peat a long prayer, let the weather be ever fo fever e.

The ufual mode of travelling is in thefe calafhes : in the front of thofe which tra- vel poft, a man fits to drive, and who, let your bufmefs be of ever fo great import- ance, will alight at thefe croiTes, and pay his accuflomed homage.

One day, on our march, being fent for- ward to procure quarters, with our friend . H 4 Cap-

104 INTERIOR TRAVELS

Captain Grattan, whofe pleafantry of man- ners you are well acquainted with j for ex- pedition we went in a pofT-calafh. The weather was fo exceffively fevere, that with the afliftance of fur coverinsis, we could fcarcely keep ourfelves warm, Not aboye a mile had been beguiled, before we came to one of thefe crofl'es,. when the fellov/ who drove us flopped ; upon aiking him why he did fo, he replied, Ce neji que pour falre une petite priere ; which petite priere he v^^as nearly five minutes in repeating, when he mounted his feat. We complained of being aimoft perillicd with cold, when he replied, AlIo?is, allons^ je vais me dep'eeher^ and after taking two or three vvhiris of his pipe, V\ hipped up his horfes, and made amends for his flopping. We had not gone a mile and a half further, before another crofs made its unwelcome appear- ance : here he mufl: alight, '^rAfaire une autre petite priere^ which, upon our not confenting to, he begged we would let him

juil

THROUGH AMERICA. lOJ

juft ftop, le terns de faire iinfgne de crcix, which he was not long about. We then jogged on agam with great chearfuhiefs, as he drove pretty faft j foon after we per- ceived the village to which we were deilined for quarters, when again he fuddenly ftopt, and upon our faying there was no crofs there, he immediately cried but, Mais en *voici une la, which, being at fome diilance from the road, we had not obferved, re- quefting us to let him halt but a moment : Ilfaut que je dcfcende ici; cejl nion village -, we told him he fnould not, and that he mull: drive into the villas:e as fall: as he could. Upon this he growled inwardly, and complained openly, till he came op- pofite to it, where he flopped again; before he could, defcend, our friend Grat- tan laid hold of his long queue, of which I told you they are exceedingly proud, and declared, if he did not immediately drive

on, he would infrantly cut it off.

This being aiierted with fome degree of

warmth,

I06 INTERIOR TRAVELS

warmth, he thought fit to facrifice his reli- gion to his vanity, fo juil croffing himfelf, muttered a fhort prayer, and drove us as fafl: as he could to the end of our journey, facrant contre the Engliih officers 5 and I do not doubt, if one could form any idea from his countenance, but he fent us both into purgatory with fach curfes, that all the malTes which could be offered would not be able to releafe us from it, for having treated his religion and his queue with fo little ceremony.

Leaving you to make your own reflec- tions on thefe Canadians and their religion, I remain.

Yours, 6cc»

LET^

THROUCH AMERICA. I07

X. E T T E R XL

Montreal^ No-v. 20//^, 1776-

MY DEAR FRIEND,

IS H A L L now proceed with my obfer- vations, and the remahider of the oc- currences which happened in our march from Quebec to this place.

About half way between Quebec and Montreal, is a town called l^rois Rivieres ; it takes its name from three rivers, whofe currents join here, and fall into the river St. Laurence. Previous to my giving you any defcription of this place, permit me to relate a trifling circumftance that occurred,

juft

'l68 INTERIOR TRAVEIS

jiill as we entered the town. About half a mile before Vv^e came to it, fo fadden and naufeous a fcent aifailed our olfa61:ory nerves, as nearly to fufFocate us, v/hich lafled till we arrived at the oiitrKirts. — Upon enquiry, vs^e found it arofe from an animal, which the Canadians call the Etfanf du Diahle, or -bete pliant e , a title which it derives from its ill fcent, occa- fioned by difcharging his urine; whenever he is attacked, and which infecls the -air for a great diftance. Laying afide this quality, it is in other refpeds a beautiful creature, being abo'tit the fize of a cat, with a fine fiiining fur, of a dark grey color, ftreaks of white gliilening from the head to. the tail, wliich is bufhy, like that of a fox, and turned, up as a fquirrel's.: this had been purfacd by fome dogs which the foldiers had with them, acrofs the road, but when it came near us, its ftench was almoft infupportable.

Thefe

THROUGH AMERICA. I09

Thefe Enfant du Diabk differ from your Enfant du Diabk, the London beaux, who have all their prettyifms perhaps, but are eternally exhaUng their peilifcrous odours, fearful, if they referved them till piirfued^ they would have no opportunity to

" Taint the flying air, and ftink in ftate.'*

The country is pleafant, and there are feveral good houfes about the town, but they were greatly damaged by the Ameri- cans, upon abandoning it, after their de- feat this fummer, when their army was routed, and feveral of their Generals, with great numbers of their men, taken pri- foners. This place is the winter canton- ments of the German troops, who are commanded by General Reidefel ; he com- mands likewife the diftrift between Que- bec and Montreal.

This town, by reafon of the three rivers, ufed to be much frequented by the feveral

nations

no INTERIOR TRAVELS

nations of Indians, and was built with a view of encouraging trade with the northern ones in particular. It had every profpe6t of heing the fecond city in the province, but the fur trade was foon diverted from this market, and carried entirely to Montreal, it being fome leagues nearer to the In- dians J and though we have feveral trad- ing places with them upon the lakes On- tario and Superior, Montreal will always fupport its confequence, as being the nearefl and mofc convenient place for fhipping the furs to England. ^rois Rivieres has now loft all its traffic and is fapported chiefly by the travellers pafling between the two cities.

There are feveral churches, and two convents, the nuns of which are reckoned the moft ingenious of any in Canada, in all kinds of fancy ornaments, needle work, and curious toys.

During

THROUGH AMERICA. Ill

During my ftay at Trots Rivie?rs, there came' down from the IUi?ioisj feveral In- dians of that nation, with an interpreter, to acquaint us, that they would be down in the fpring, and would take up the hatchet in favor of " thei?' good Brother who rrfided beyond the great waters." Among the groupe I obferved one, who had hang- ing round his neck the image of the holy Virgin, with our Saviour in her arms, which I thought very fmgular, as he was of a nation efteemed extremely ferocious in their manner, and whom the French Miffionaries could not convert j but upon my enquiring of the interpreter if he knew the reafon, he gave me the following account :

In fome ikimirfh, when the Illinois were at war with the Canadians, this image had fallen into their hands, amongft other plunder. Sometime aftei'wards as a Mif- fionary, of which the French had great

numbers

irZ INTERIOR TRAVELS

numbers travelling through the interior parts of Canada, to cultivate friendihip, and eilabliih their religion among the In- dians J by chance he met this perfon, and obferving the image, was very much ailoniilied; the manner in which he took notice of it, excited the curiofity of the poor favage, to know what it reprefented, when the Millionaiy, who no doubt was pleafed to have fuch an opportunity of dif- playing his religion, told him, that it re- prefented the mother of his God, and that tl:ie child fhe held in her arms reprefented God himfelf, who had made himfelf man for the falvation of the human fpecies, and explaining to him the myftery of our in- carnation, affuring him, that in all dan- gers the Chriftians addreffed themfelves to this holy mother, who feldom failed to extricate them. The Indian liflened with the utmofl attention to this difcourfe, and v/ent away.

Some-

i-HROUGH AMERICA" IIT;

Being cut a hunting, foon after this, juft as he had difcharged his piece at a deer, one of the Ottiagami Indians, whofe nation was at variance with the lUi^ioisy and who was lying in ambufh, prefented his piece at his head. In this fituation he recollefted what had been told him about the mother of God, and invoked her protection. The Ontagami endeavoured to difcharge his piece, but miffed ; he cocked a fecond time, and the fame thing hap- pened five times fuccellively. In tlie inte- rim the lllijiois had loaded his piece, and prefented it to the Outagamie who chofe rather to furrdrider than be {hot. From that time the Illinois would never ftir froni his village without his fafeguard, which he imao;ines renders him invulnerable. There can remain little doubt but this circumftarice was the means oi his eonver- fion to GhrifVianity, and the Romifli re- ligion : for he has certainly embraced that perfuafion, as I foUov/ed him to the

Vol. L I great

J 14 INTERIOR TRAVELS

great church, where, upon his entrance, after croffing himfelf with the holy water, he fell upon his knees, and feemed to wor- fhip with as much devotion as the mofl devout of the Canadians. But to return to my defcription of this place. ^

The road from Quebec hither is the whole way within fight of the river, being moilly upon its banks, which renders it extremely pleafant to travellers, efpecially in the fummer, as there is a conllant breeze. ^

The river from Quebec to T-rois Rwutcs is very wide, and at that place it forms a very large lake, called Sf. Pierre, where the eye cannot reach acrofs ; you can only difcern a large body of water, with feveral iHands, which, with the fmall vefiels fail- ing between them, form a very romantic profpeft. The tide comes no farther than this lake, terminating a few leagues

beyond

THROUGH AMERICA. TI^

beyond Trots Rivieres, when you meet with the river again, where it runs extremely rapid, at the rate of feven or eight miles an hour. At its firll appearance you can hardly fuppofe it the fame river, for where the tide has effeft, it feldom runs more than four miles an hour ; it increafes in rapidity as you advance to Montreal, and oppofite the city it runs almoil ten miles an hour, which renders its navigation ex^ tremely difficult, as nothing but a very ilrong and favourable wind, with all the fails full fet, can enable vefTels to iliem the current. What with unfavourable winds and light breezes, fliips have been as long in getting up from 'T7'ois Rivieres to Montreal, as they were on their paflage from England to Quebec.

The rapidity of the current makes crof- fmg not only difagreeable, but very dan- gerous, for unlefs you have a fkilful pilot, the current will carry you a league below I 2 where

Il6 INTERIOR TRAVELS

\Vhere you want to land. And yet it is furprizing, how expert the Canadians are with their wooden eanoes ; but the Indians far exceed them in working theirs, as their canoes are of a much hghter conftru6lion. Both being much ufed in this country, I fhall endeavour to defcribe them, that you may be able to form fome idea of what they are.

Thofe which the Canadians ufe, are called wooden ones, being hollowed out of the red elm, fome of which are fo large, as to contain twenty perfons.

Thofe which the Indians ufe, are made of the bark of the birch tree, and diftin- guifhed by the name of birch canoes, the different parts of which they few together with the inner rind of the bark of the tree, and daub them over with a pitch, or rather a bituminous matter, refembling pitch, to prevent their leaking. They form the ribs

from

THROUGH AMERICA^ 11/

from the boughs of the hickory tree, and are conftrucled of different dimenfions, fome being only lai'ge enough to contain two perfons, and others thirty.

Thefe canoes are eafily managed by the Indians with their paddles, and with the current go at a prodigious rate, for one fmgle flroke with the paddle will force them twice the length of the canoe againft it. It was with one of thefe birch canoes that General Carleton, with an Aid-de- Camp, made their efcape through the ene- my's fleet, when he quitted Montreal, foi the purpofe of putting Quebec in a better itate of defence.

Unwilling to lofe the opportunity of lending this by an officer who is going to Quebec, I am obliged to put a period to this letter : and, no doubt, upon the perufal of It, you will eafily difcover the young tra- 1 3 veller.

Il8 INTERIOR TRAVELS

veiler, who is diverted with every thing that prefents itfelf to his view. But in hopes that it may afford you half an hour's amufement, I remain, .

Yours, &c.

L E T~

THROUGH AMERICA. ll^

J. E T T E R XIL

Mofilreal, November zSihf 1776.

MY DEAR FRIEND,

EFORE I defcribe to you this city, let me give you fome account of the ifland on which it Hands, and fi'om whence it derives its name.

This ifland, which meafurcs, ten leagues in length and about four in breadth, is formed by the river St. Laurence, and in the center of it are two lai'ge mountains, which are the firft you meet vvdth on the north fide of St. Laurence, and were called by the firfl difcoverers of this province, I 4 Morifs

JZQ INTERIOI^ TRAVELS

Monfs Royatix, which gave name to the ifland, afterwards Mont Royal, and at laft, by a variety of corruptions of the language, Montreal,

Of all the adjacent countries, there is no place where the climate is reckoned to be fo mild, fo pleafant, and the foil fo fruitful: with all thefe natural bleffingSj is it not furprizing to fee it thinly inha- bited, and very ill fettled, for except two or three miles round the city, the country is moflly woods, interfperfed with a few fmall plantations.

One thing not a little remarkable is, that this ifland contains a fmaller one of about three miles in length, and two and ^ half in breadtli, formed by tvv^o inlets of S|:. Laurence. This little ifland, which is called the IJle de Jefus, is almoil cleared from woods, and has a fmall church and a few hqufes on it, rendering Mon^

treal

THROUGH AMERICA. J2I

fireal extremely plealant ; being i'o fituated, that you cannot go a great length in any dire6lion, before you come to it; and furely, after traveUing through woods and fwamps, it affords a moft pleafmg relief.

The fummlt of the mountains 1 have defcribed to you are extremely difficult to gain ; but having once accompliflied it,, the delightful profped that prefents itfelf, amply compenfates for the fatigue and dangers you encounter, being able to viev/ the whole ifland, and feveral leagues round it. You can plainly difcern the moun- tains that crofs Lake Champlain, called the Green Mountains, which are near 60 miles diflant. It appears generally a vaft foreft, there being only three objefts to diverfify the fcene : the view of the city of Mon- treal, the river St. Laurence, and the mountains of Chamblee, which are exceed- ingly beautiful, and the more remark- able", being in a plain level country, and

not

122 INTERIOR TRAVELS

not having a fmgle hill for feveral leagues round them ; they are confiderably loftier than the mountains on this ifland.

This city forms an oblong fquare, di-r vided by regular, w^ell formed ftreets, and the houfes in general are well built; there are feveral churches, but thofe, as well as many of the houfes have felt the effe6ls of this war.

The city is fur rounded by a wail and dry ditch, and at one end there is a citadel. Thefe fortifications wxre raifed many years paft, as a defence againft the Indians, and fince the war, great improvements have been made to them \ but the city is fo fituated, that no works can be raifed to enabled it to ftand a regular fiege, having many rifmg grounds, that comn^and it in more places than one.

When

7HR0UGH AMERICA. 1 23

When we gained polTeflion of this pro- vince, Montreal was nearly as large as Que- bec, but fince that time it has fuffered much by fire ; it is greatly to be wondered at, that it has not, one time or other, been totally deftroyed : for in the winter, when the inhabitants go to bed, they make great fires in their iloves, and leave them burn- ing all night, by which means they are frequently red hot before morning. Ima- gine how very dangerous they mufl have been, when their houfes were conflru6i:ed of woodi few of thofe are now remaining, except in the outikirts of the city, the greatefl part of them being built of ftone.

The inhabitants here, as well as thofe of Quebec, having fo many times faiFered by fire, conflrucl their buildings in fuch a manner, that they are not only perfe61iy fecure againft that element, but even againfl houfe-breakers, which being a little

lin<rular.

124 INTERIOR TRAVELS

fingukr, you will have no obje6lion to my defcribing them.

The houfe eonfifts of one lofty floor, built with flone, and the apartments are divided by fuch thick walls, that ihould a fire happen in one of them, it cannot com- municate to any other : the top of the houfe being covered with a ftrong arch, if the roof which is over it fnould catch fire, it cannot damage the interior part of the Iioufe. At Quebec, that city having been fo often befieged, the inhabitants v/ho are now building at that place, make this arcl\ bomb-proof.

Each apartment has a double door, the inner one of wood, and the outer one of iron, which is only fliut when the family retire to reft ^ the windows have double ihutters of the fame materials, and have not only taken this precaution with the doors that lead out of the houfe, but

added

THROUGH AMERICA.' 1 25

added an iron one, which is fixed on the infide. *

Thefe doors and fhutters are made of plate iron, near half an inch thick, which, perhaps, you will imagine, mufl: give the houfe a very difagreeable appearance, but it is far otherwife, for being moftly painted green, they afford a pleafmg contrail to the whitenefs of the houfe.

This is the bufy time of the merchants belonging to this place, who are now ufuig all pollible expedition in fending home their furs, before the winter fets in. The reafon afhgned for deferring it till fo late in the feafon, is on account of the traders, fome of whom are but jufl arrived from the upper countries, the merchants gene- rally waiting as long as there is a pofTibility of their return, and fometimes fo long in expectation of them, as to lofe their mar- kets entirely.

Thefe

126 .INTERIOR TRAVELS

Thefe traders, in the courfe of their voyages, are cAitinually encountering hardlhips and difficulties, and their lives

are frequently in imminent danger :-

nothing can counterbalance the great perils that av^ait them, but the certainty of ac- quiring an ample fortune in the courfe of three or four voyages.

They fet out in the iprlng of the year, in parties of about tv^enty or thirty per- fons, with perhaps eight or ten large birch canoes j they have no fixed courfe to take, but fteer that where it is imagined they can meet with a tribe of Indians j keeping moftly upon the upper lakes, fometimes carrying their goods and canoes acrofs rapids, which are parts of the river greatly quickened by the defcents, and over land to a river, up which they will proceed many leagues. If they do not meet with any Indians, it obliges them to return again to the lake, and proceed weftward.

The

THROUGH AMERICA. 12^

The goods they take with them to bar- ter for ikins, confiil chiefly of brandy, to- bacco, a fort of dufhl blanket, gun§, pow^ der and balls, kettles, hatchets and toma- hawks, as likewife looking-glaffes, ver* million and various other paints j and according to any article that an Indian has a defire or an ufe for, he will give ten times its value in fKins. They are mofl eager after powder, bail, paint, brandy and to- bacco.

Thefe traders traverfe vafl: lakes and rivers with incredible induflry and pa- tience, carrying their goods among na- tions in the remoteft parts of America. They are generally abfent from their fa- milies about tln^ee years, before their de- parture make a will, and fettle all their affairs, many of them, with their whole paity, having been put to death by the Indians, either for the flores they carry Vx'ith them^ or to revcn,2:e the death of fome

of

taS INTERIOR TRAVELS

of their nation, who has been killed by the burfting of a gun that has been fold to them, which is frequently the cafe, they being by no means proof. The Indians do not wait for thofe traders who fold the gun, but take their revenge upon the firft they meet with. Here I muft obferve to you, that the guns which are fold to the Indians are fitted up in a very neat man^ ner, to attract the notice of thefe poof creatures, and frequently, after having been fired five or fix times, they burfl, and the unfortunate purchafer is either killed, or lofes an hand or an arm. Thefe traders are certainly the beil judges, but I cannot help thinking it both cruel and impolitic.

It having been hinted, that a reward would be given to him who fhould difcover a north-weft pafl^ge, or whether the Con- tinent joins to India, two fuppofitions much credited by the Europeans in general j feveral of tlie traders have endeavoured to

find

THROUGH AMERICA. I29

find which is the true one : as there is every year fome frefli difcovery made, there re- mains but little doubt that in fome future time it will be efFefted. I believe the far- theft that any of them have yet reached was a Mr. Henry, who is reported to have travelled for ten days upon a large plain, on which grew only a rank-grafs, nearly as high as a man's breail, and on this plain he frequently met with immenfe droves of buffaloes, and obferved the tracks of feveral others j that on the eleventh day he came to a vaft river, which flopped his progrefs, as he did not chufe to venture croffing in a canoe -, that the water was quite fait, and run extremely rapid, from which circum- ftance he concluded there muft be a north- weft paflage.

Whether it is fo or not, it is to be hoped that when this unhappy contefl is ended. Government may think it a matter worthy their confideration, and fit out an expedi-

VoL. L K tion

130 INTERIOR TRAVELS

tion for afcertaining it, as the difcovery would not only be of great importance to England, but to all the world. As we have already made fuch great and wonder- ful difcoveries in the South Seas, furely this will be deemed of fufficient import- ance to juilify the expence of fitting out proper perfons from England to invefligate the faa.

If after fo many fruitlefs attempts, fome one lliQuld appear, whole firm mind will rife fuperior to every fenfe of danger, en- countering variety of hardfnips, and whofe patience is not exhaufled by their duration j if fuch a one, animated with a hope of glory, which alone teaches men to difre- gard life, rendering them equal to the greatefl undertakings; v/ho, being well informed, fo as to underftand what he fees, and of veracity enough to relate only what he has feen — if fuch a man fliould appear, and no doubt there are many who pofiefs

thefe

THROUGH AMERICA. T31

thefe excellent and extraordinary qualiiica- tions, his refearches will perhaps be crown- ed with better fuccefs. But, if after fucli an undertaking, this celebrated pafTage fhould ftill remain concealed, it mall: be concluded, either that it doth not exift, or is not given to man to difcover,

I add nothing more to this letter, fearful of lofmg its conveyance, therefore remain

Yours, Sec.

K 2 LET-

132 INTERIOR TRAVELS

L E T T B R XIIL

Montreal, No-v. }0//j, 1776. MY DEAR FRIEND,

FEW days ago, I made a vifit to our friend Shlagell of the 21ft regiment, at St. John's, where he is ftationed for the winter. I cannot but fay I was much pleafed with the place, it having all the appearance of a dock-yard, and of being equally as bufy. The fleet that was upon the Lake is repairing, as likewife feveral of the veffels, that we took from the Ameri- cans 5 they are laid up in docks, to preferve them from the inclemencies of the winter, and by the enfuing fpring, what with the

Ihips

THROUGH AMERICA. I 3 3

f^iips we had before, and thofe we have Imce taken from the Americans, we fliall have a fleet far fupedor to any they can poflibly bring on the Lakes.

There are two fchooners here, the Carle- to7i and Maria^ which were buih in Eng- land upon a conflruftion to take into pieces, in order to be tranfported acrofs a cariy- ing-place of about two miles. After their faihng from England to the mouth of the rapids, which prevented their proceeding up to St. John's, rather than lofe the time of taking them to pieces, and re-conftru6l- ing them. Lieutenant Schank, of the navy, an ingenious officer, informed General Carleton, that they might be conveyed upon a cradle over land to St. John's, entire, provided there was a good road made for them. The General acquiefced in this gentleman's propofal, and the whole army were employed in making a road. One of the veiTels was near half a mile on it, by K 3 means

134 INTERIOR TRAVELS

means of cables fixed to windlalTes every twenty yards j but tlie General perceiving this mode of conveyance would take up more time than the other, gave orders to have the fchooners taken to pieces and re- built, which was accomplilhed in as fliort a fpace of time as they had been creeping that fmali diltance upon land.

Our naval force being far inferior to what the Am.ericans had this fummer upon the Lakes, it v/as deemicd necefTary to en- creafe it. The fhip-wriglits were initantly employed to build a frigate, and the army in cutting the timber for it, which is now as complete a velTel as any in the King's fervice. I am afraid you will think I ufurp the privilege of a traveller, when I tell you that this frigate was conftrucled in fo fhort a time, that in eight and twenty days after her keel was laid flie was in a6tion j and what was ftill more wonderful, there were only fixteen fhip-wrights to build her, one

of

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 35

of wliom was, on the third day, fo badly wounded with an adze, as to be of little fervice.

You may cafiiy imagine how great muft have been the aftonifliment of the Ameri- cans when file came upon the Lakes, knowing we had no fuch fhip when they abandoned St. John's. Notwithflanding this, they fouglit their fleet bravely, and jOur new-built veliel, by the falling of the wind, bore but a partial part of the en- gagement, the ftrefs laying upon the Carle- ton and Maria fchooners, which- were both much fliattered. On board the latter was General Carleton^ who had a very narrow efcape, a cannon fliot pafhng ciofe by him as he was giving direftions to an officer, and which the General v/ith that coolnefs and intrepidity that fo much dilf inguiflies his character, took no notice of, but turn- ing round, gave his orders with as much K 4 com-

136 INTERIOR TRAVELS

compofure as if he had been in the moil perfect ftate of fecurity.

This place, which is called the key to Canada, when the works are compleated, will be of great flrength ; there are tem- porary barracks at prefent, both for foi- diers and artificers. The old barracks, as well a§ the fort the Americans deftroyed when they abandoned the place, were for- merly quite furrounded with woods, but are now clear for fome diftance round.

In order that you may form a juil idea of this important place, I have enclofed you a drawing of it, reprefenting the two redoubts, with the rope-walk, the (hip on the ftpcks, and the other velfels at anchor near the fort, and which 1 have taken from the block-houfe erefted on the oppofite fide of the river Sorell.

From

r/f/r roU.pa^f. /,5f^

136 INTERIOR TRAVELS

compofure as if he had been in the moil perfecl ftate of fecurity.

This place, which is called the key to Canada, when the works are compleated, will be of great ftrength ; there are tem- porary barracks at prefent, both for fol- diers and artificers. The old barracks, as well a? the fort the Americans deftroyed when they abandoned the place, were for- merly quite furrounded with woods, but are now clear for fome diftance round.

In order that you may form a juft idea of this important place, I have enclofed you a drawing of it, reprefenting the two redoubts, with the rope-walk, the fhip on the ftpcks, and the other velFels at anchor near the fort, and which 1 have taken from the block-houfe ere6led on the oppofite fide of the river Sorell.

From

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 37

From this place I went to the IJJe au Noix^ which is the advanced poft of the army, on which the 20th regiment is ftucion- ed. This ifland is about a mile and a half in length, and three quarters of a mile in breadth j it was entirely covered with wood, but at prefent greatly cleared, and before the winter is over, we imagine it will be entirely fo. Although fo late in the year, and in this fevere climate, the regiment ftationed there is encamped, and likely to continue fo till after Chriftmas, as it will be that time before the block-houfes in- tended for them are finiflied.

Block-houfes not being generally known in England, fhall be my apology for giving you a defcription of them. They are con- ftrufted of timbers, placed one on the other, of a fufficient thicknefs to refifl a mufquet fhot, and large enough to contain from 100 to 120 men; there are two apartments in them, one above the other,

in

I^S INTERIOR TRAVELS .

the Upper of which is a divifion for the officers. In both the lower and upper apartments are two pieces of cannon and four port-holes, for the purpofe of point- ing thefe cannon on any hde of the block- houfe on which it may be attacked; and in cafe an enemy fhould in the night en^ deavour to fet hre to the houfe, there are loop-holes, tlirough whiph the troops on the iniide c^n level their pieces and fire upon the affailahts. They are reckoned to be a very ftrong defence, as it has been kno-ivn that a fmall party of men, in one of thefe block-houfes^ have repulfed treble their ov/n number. But that you may more fully comprehend the conflruction of thefe unufual fortifications, I have inclofed a drawing and fection of one of them for your infpeCtion.

The fbldiers, not only at the I/Ie an Noixy but likewife at St. John's, have been very fubjecl to the fcurvy, not having any

other

^\ :v^^ ?^. ^\ ^! :sc $;. ^,

^ k ?V V ^1 W" '^ hi

^^

^

I

V

1^8 INTERIOR TRAVELS -

the Upper of which is a divifion for the officers. In both the lower and upper apartments are two pieces of cannon and four port-holes, for the purpofe of point- ing thefe cannon on any fide of the block- houfe on which it may be attp-cked; and in cafe an enemy fnould in the night en^ deavour to fet fire to the houfe, there are loop-holes, through whiph the troops on the iniide can level their pieces and fire upon the afiailahts, They are reckoned to be a very ftrong defence, as it has been known that a fmall party of men, in one: of thefe block-houfesj have repulfed treble their own number. But that you may more fully comprehend the conflruclion of thefe unufual fortifications, I have inclofed a drawing and feclion of one of them foj; yoijr infpe6tion.

The fbldiers, not only at the I/Ie aii- Noix, but likewife at St. John's, have been very fubjecl to the fcurvy, not having any

other

ZJ r^/ie ri /v Ji/aced .

The Elan of the Ground Floor ^/ •yV/c lyp/'/ /irr/e-j /i>r y<7n'/to?i

r- .y'/r 0:Wu- . ^

Fjq. /.

(>/a ji!^/o{/f-//rmJ^Jy'

7j,//te //U/y/o////,

twr.

The Tlan of die upper Stor-^. ^/ <i/f>.eyJurFt^n<fU^ ypr (d/i >ion . B .^Mf /r?Y A/m.

{■'y/if /t/a^crrm eu.<yt^me^

G ,^Mf /l^ >?/7(Hf'~.

t'/Ziif/v //urf/r / // //le

Kctde of Feet .

■^

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 39

Other than fait provifions, but by di-hikhig plentifully of fpruce beer, they are now all in perfect health, which clearly proves that liquor to be a powerful antifcorbutic. It is fo much known in England, as to need no defcription -, the only difference between the fpruce there and here is, that here it is made with the branches of the tree itfelf, ^nd there with the effence,

As the feverity of the weather fliuts up all intercourfe by letters, this is the lad you may expect to receive from me till the froft breaks np. But though I cannot write to you, be allured I fhall continually think of you, and remain, with the greateft efheem and fmceritv.

Yours, &c.

LET

140 INTERIOR TRAVELS

LETTER XIV.

Montreal y January I'ith, 1777. MY DEAR FRIEND,

I DID not expe6l to have written fo foon, but an opportunity of a flag of truce, v^^hich is going by the way of Ticon- deroga to New- York, unexpeftedly occur- ring, I am happy to embrace it, efpeciaily when it is impoflible for me to employ my leifure hours more fatisfa6lory to myfelf, than in endeavouring to divert you. I fliall therefore proceed to give you fome ac- count of the winter amufements of this place, and among the principal ones is that of carioling upon the ice, the inhabitants

making

THROUGH AMERICA, I4I

making large parties every day for that purpofe J they generally go to Point aux T^rembks^ about three leagues from this city, at which place refides a Dutch woman, who makes mofl excellent faufages, and at whofe houfe it is cuftomary to refrefli with thefe and bottled porter. As the north wind generally blows very fliarp, you ac- quire a pretty good appetite, and, for my own part, I enjoyed this petite rep as in pre- ference to my dinner, very few regimen- tal mefTes being conducted with that pro- priety and decorum which fhould charac- terize the profeffion, as there are generally among them a fet of ungovernable young men. But to return to my defcription of carioling.

You will no doubt think it too much to go nine miles and back again for a jaunt before dinner -, but this mode of travelling is fo very expeditious, that mofl of the inhabitants defer their journey to Quebec

till

142 INTERIOR TRAVELS

till this feafon of the year, as they can per * form it with lefs difficulty^ and much greater expedition.

Tli& carioles are fafliioned after different devices, to imitate birds and beads, but in general they are of one conilruftion, with only this difference, that the common peo- ple have theirs clofe upon the ice or fnow, while thole of their fuperiors are raifed upon what are called runners, which elevate them about two feet. They paint them of various fantaftical colors ; many of them, as a contrail to this feafon of the year, are colored in imitation of thunder and light- ning. It is certainly a very eafy and expe- ditious method of travelling, for the horfes of the country will go with eafe fifteen miles an hour upon the ice. The inha- bitants think nothing of a journey of forty or fifty miles to fee a friend, and returning the fame day.

Not-

Through America. 143

Notwithilanding the river runs fo rapid as I have before defcribed, and is now en- tirely frozen, over, yet there are certain warm fprings that never vv'ill congeal j to caution travellers, every parifh, as foon as the river is frozen over, is obliged to fix large pine trees in the ice, diitant from each other about ten feet, which receiving rnoifture frcin the ice, and being an ever- green, continue fo the whole winter, fa that when travelling, it appears as if you were going between an avenue of firs.

On each fide of the river it is quite fmooth, but in the center, where tlie cur- rent runs fo rapid, the ice is thrown up in prodigious hills, through which the inha- bitants are obliged to cut a paffage to crofs the river j the^lides are frozen (o as to bear carriages, long before the center, and when that freezes, no thunder can equal the noife, the reafon of which you vdll eafily imagine, for where thcfe rapids are, the

ice

144 INTERIOR TRAVELS

ice is thrown up in a continual fucceflion of hills ; between thefe hills, you are furrounded with ice feveral yards high, and there it is inconceivably cold ; when upon the top of one of thefe hills, you cannot help flopping to view the many curious forms the ice is thrown into, fome of it being in that of a pyramid, other pieces that of a cone, others again in large flabs, and fome of it refembling the figures of men, birds and beads ; in fliort, no defcription can equal fo romantic a pro- fpeft.

The Canadians have a very fmgular cuf- tom among them, at the commencement of the year, the men go round the city and falute the ladies, who fit up in ilate for three days for that purpofe, and as the in- habitants are acquainted with each other, the lady is generally faluted by the greateft part of the men ; the fahitation is after the French fafnion, upon the cheek, vvhen

having

THROUGH A-MERICA. I45

having faluted one, the lady prefents the other.

The European ladies who are fettled here, rather than appear fmgular, adopt this cuftom, only varying the falutation after the Enghfh fafhion ; not but what I think the French mode preferable on this occafion, where the lady is under the ne-^ ceffity. of receiving the falute of every one. As I know you will make this obfer\^ation, I dare fay he went his rounds^ let me candidly acknov/ledge I did, and with another officer. We had a very great mortification in going to the houfe of an Englilli merchant, who has a beautiful wife : upon our entering, we difputed who fhould falute her firfl -, you may fuppofe how eager we both were in our addreiTes upon entering the room, and would have enjoyed our chagrin, when we faw General Phillips there, whofe de- parture muft be waited for, before we could falute the lady 3 perhaps you will

Vol. I. L fay

146 INTERIOR TRAVELS

fay the pleaflire was heightened by con- templating her charms — Prcejlat expcBare.

This being the firil CathoUc country T ever was iii, you muft fuppofe meparticu- larly attentive to their rehgious ceremonies at Chriftmas. I had ever conceived, that moft authors had greatly exaggerated their accounts upon that head, and had I not met with convincing proofs, my candor could not fuppofe that mankind wTre fo weak in their underftandings. . That the lower clafs of people iliould be led away is not to be wondered at, but how TF.en of learning, found fenfe and good underfcand- ing fhould, is to me aftonilhing. It. is allowable for every man to worlhip aiiy thing fymbolically, but their doing it in reality never can be admitted. Thefe fuperflitious people implicitly believe, the waxen images that are lliewn them by their priefts, to be abfolutely the- perfons they . are intended to reprelent.

On

THROUGH AMERICA. I47

. On Chriftmas Eve, I went to the great church, where there was a prodigious con- courfe of people, and got as near as I could to the altar, to obferve the ceremonies. About nine o'clock the fer\dce began with prayers and anthems, which lailed till ten, when the cradle was brought in, upon which there was a great fhout ; after this the5'' continued finging and praying till the clock ftruck twelve, when the high prieft brought in a wax figure of a child, fuperbly drelTed, the mufic ftruck up, and there was a fecond great ftiouting. The child being depofited in the cradle, it was rocked till about one o'clock, when the ceremony finifhed. ; ' .

■ : >Iii fome of; the convents they are ex- ceedingly curious in their wax images : there was a reprefentation of the Meffiah, which was daily vaiied in its fize, from the time of its fuppofed birth, till the time the Monks had fixed as necelfary for its L 2 being

I4B INTERIOR TRAVELS

being fufficiently grown to reprelent our Saviour, at the age he vi^as when he preach- ed in the Temple. When I firil went to fee this wax-work, on the Chrillmas-day, there was a figure of Jpfeph, dreiled in a fcarlet; cloak, with a large tie wig, another to refemble the Virgin Mary with a little child, laying in a manger, and over it was the figure an ox and an afs's head; which are at the fame time emblematijcal of their own flubbornefs and ftupidity.- In -a few days this reprefentation was changed, and there was another of the Wife Men .making their offerings to tlie Sahator Mundi y fo continuing ev^ry remarkable event of his life, till the time of preaching, in the Temple j and whenever I went, there was always a vafl concourfe of people upon their knees praying to thefe- figures. This mode of religion appears. to me to ^ be ex- tremely well calculated to infpire devotion in the lower clafs of people, yet it is great pity fome better method of paying adora- tion

THROUGH AMERICA. I49

don to the Divine Being cannot be adopt- ed to infpire a true fenfe of his exiflence, than means fo abfurd. Difference of opinion concerning religion ever will pre- vail, but left you think I am growing too fermonic, I fliall conclude this fubje6l with an obfervation of a Monfieur BlondeauXy at whofe houfe 1 am quartered, and who is a very fenfible and intelligent man.

Convcrfing with him, one day, on their worfhipping thefe waxen images, and other ridiculous ceremonies in their religion, Monfieur y faid he, Moji avis eft que chacun doit fuivre la religion pour laquelle il fe font plus d' inclination J et je fuis ajfure qiiaujour dujugementj on ne nous demandra pas quelle religion nous avons profejee^ mais que nous ferons tons recompenfes on punis felon nos ac- tions.

As I informed you this goes by a flag of

truce, it would be unpardonable to omit

L 3 men-

150 INTERIOR TRAVELS

nientionirxg the humanity of GePxcral Carle- ton, who has cloathed all thofe who were taken prifohers, they being almofl in a ftate of nakednefe ; many of them he^^fuf- fered to return to their homes upon their paroles of not bearing arms again during the war. Thofe who are here to .be ex- changed are cloathed, and fare the fanie as our own foldiers;:>siibtni b;

. Fate can only dertermine. whether I fliall experience the misfortune of being tak^n prifoner, but, if I fliould, it is my hdpe that I may not meet with worfe treatment than thefe people have received.

By the mode this will be conveyed, I am not certain that it may reach you j but if it fhould, it brings you my beft wifhes for your health and happinefs, and an aifurance that I am, with great fnicerity.

Yours, &c.

LET-

lilROUGH AMERICA. J CI

LETTER XV.

Montreal, January z%ih, 1777

MY DEAR FRIEND,

r H "5 H E winter is now fet in with great i feverity, and you would naturally conclude that this countiy is the moil: un- comfortable in the. world, and its inhabi- tants the mofl unhappy, but far from it : the city and the country people around, feem to be perfectly in their element ; there is nothing but carioling, feafting, and other amufements. The Canadians perfe6lly refemble the French with refpecl to dancing, having meetings at each other's houfes for that purpofe almofl every night. L 4 Thoug]>

152 INTERIOR TRAVELS

Though the weather is fo fevere, the in- habitants here never ftay in doors in the day, unlefs it fnows, which feldom hap- pens, for the firft fall is generally the only one they have, and that lafts for two or three days, after which the weather is fettled, and has been extremely pleafant for this month paft^ excepting one day, there has been quite an Italian Iky, not a cloud to be feen.

The air of Canada is reckoned the moll: falubiiovis and healthy of any in the world ; yet notwithftanding this, the Canadians are very confumptive, and it is incredible what numbers of them die before they arrive at maturity; if they furvive that period, they moftly liye to a good old age.

A very eminent phyfician. Dr. Kennedy, who is with our army, attributes this en- tirely to the ftoves they make ufe of in the winter, and that was any other mode of

conveying

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 53

conveying warmth fubflituted, they would in all probability be a long lived people. For, fays he, the inhabitants moftly keep their ftoves heated, and in coming out of the frefh air to enter a room where there is one, you are almoft fufFocated. How pernicious this muft be to the conllitution, efpecially of the young children, who are continually going in and out of the heated rooms into the fnow and upon the ice ; and when the lungs and pores are expanded by the heat of thefe ftoves, run without any addition of cloathing into the cold, where the blood receives fo fudden a change, that it generally leaves fome fatal diforder upon the lungs.

It is very difficult to eradicate long efta- blifhed prejudices and cuftoms, but if the Canadians were to adopt the mode of other northern chmates, where the cold is nearly as intenfe as it is here, I think they would experience the benefits arifmg from it.

In

154 INTERIOR TRAVELS

In Ruiliai Germany, and in all the northern parts upon the Continent in Europe J the inhabitants have,ftoves hmilar to the Canadians, but fo conftrufted, that when the room is of a fufficient v/armth, the front opens v/ith two folding doors, where there is a good fire in a grate, and the fulphureous air exhales up the funnel, by which means they enjoy an agreeable warmth ; if they perceive it getting cold, they (hut the doors for a little while, till the room is fjfficiently heated. The Ca- nadian ftoves are fo conflru(5led, that the whole time you are in a room, you are almoft ftifled with- the falphureous vapor, which mull be extremely pernicious, and in all probability occafions the fallov/ com- plexion of the Canadians ; there cannot be a jftronger proof that it is fo, than its hav- ing the fam^e effeft on Europeans who have been fettled here any length of time.

They

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 55

They put me in mind of Eiafmus's

Di'uerforia Gennanica ^^-B. I?i hypocm/Jio

exuis ocreas ; induis calceos ; viutas^ fi 'volcSj indufiwn^ i:efies pluvia madidas fufpendisjiixta hyfccaufium; ipfe te admo'vcs^ itt ficccris, Itaqiie frequenter in idem hypocauftiim con- veniunt oBaginta aiit nonaginta^ peditcs, equites^ negotiatores^ jiatita^ aurigce^ agricoke^ pueri^fcemina^fanij cegroti. — G\5. IJiiicvere cc^nobium eji. — Be. Alius ibi peBit caputs alius abjlergit fudorem, alius re pur gat per ones ant ocreas.^ alius eruBat aliuin. ^id mult is .^ Ibi linguarum ac perfonarwn non minor eft cofifujio^ quam olim i?i twri Babel. Prodit famulus fenex barbd cand^ tonfo capite^ vultu torvo^ for dido vefiitu. — Gu. T'ales opportebat cardinalibus Ro7najiis effe a pocidis. — Be. Is circumaBis oralis tacitus dinumerat, quot f?it in hypocauflo : quo plures adeffe isidetj hoc ^Y- hejnentius accenditur hypocauftiim etiamfi ali- oque fol ajluft moleflus. Hcec apud illos prce- cipua pars efl bonce traBicnis,fi fudore difiuant omnes. Si quis non affuetus vapori, apcriat . . ■ rimam

156 INTERIOR TRAVELS

rimamfenejlra, ne pr(rfocetur, protinus audit ^ Claude. Si refpondeas^ Non fero : audis^ Quaere igitur aliuddiverforium.— Gu. At- que mihi nihil zndetur periculojiusj qiiam tarn multos haurire eundem vaporem^ maxime refo- lu^o corpore, atque hie capere cibiim^ et horas complures commorari. T'um enim omitto ruBus alhatos^ et ventris jiatum^ halitus putre's.i multi Junt qui moj'bis ocultis labor ant ^ nee iillus morbus non hahet fuum contagium. — Be. Su?tt ■viri forte Sy ijlarident ac negligiint. — Gu. Sed interim mult or um perieulo fortes funt. — You will pardon me fuch a long quotation, but it is fo appofitCj that I could not reiift it.

Although the weather is intenfely cold, the mode of drefs in ufe here, and thefe ftoves, prevent your ever feeling any; there are none of thofe raw damp days, fo much the fubje6l of complaint in England, and from the bad efFe6ls of which no cloathing will defend you.

The

THROUGH AMERICA^ 1 ^J

The drefs of the natives is extremely well calculated for the climate j it confifts (in addition to the common habiliments worn in England) of a blanket coat, a pair of what are called leggings, with a Idnd of flap on the outfide of the leg, to pre- vent the fnow from clogging round them ; fur gloves, and a fur cap, which is made to pull over the ears, but'tliis is feldora done, except v/hen the flrong noith-weil winds blow. At that time it is very dan- gerous to go out, as you run a great rifque of being froft-bit, which happens in an inflant, fometimes in turning the cor- ner of a flreet, without being fenfible of it at the time, as it occafions no fort of pain ; if the pait affected is not immediately rubbed with fnow, and every precaution taken, it is fure to mortify, andfhould any one, thus, circumflanced, be imprudent enough to go near the fire, mortification is inevitable.

To

158 INTERIOR TRAVELS

To convince you how very inftantaneous kimill be, I ^iliall relate a ludicrous cir- cumilance, which however had nearly been productive of a duel.

An officer in the garrifon having a nofe remarkably large, was going to dinner at the mefs, when not four doors from his lodgings, turning round a corner, he met another officer, who. im^mediately . cried out, "God blefs me; your nofe is firoft-bit." From the fmall diftance he had gone, he thought it impoffible, and that his^ friend was bantering him ^ high words arofe, and they parted with an appointment to meet the next morning, to refent the affront. He made hafte to his dmner,. and upon his entering the room, the officers prevented his coming to the fire, telling, him at the fame time his nofe was froil-bit.e Hethen began to think it no joke, and -was happy to apply the ufual remedy : it w^^.no bad punifliment for his railmefs and incredu- lity,

THROUGH AMERICA,.^ I59

Jjty, that during the time the" oitkqr^ were at dinner, he was obliged tq be in th^^-cpldj rubbing his nofe with Ihow till th^; blood cireulated, and though • very- . in&ip, r ie-t, obliged tQ nofe ^ meaL liejW(9>ili,b«Yj^,b^9x happy to paitakc ofcoi;> o .'w oiodi to In «•-• : ;„, . .. : - ..! oi bt*;;iMo sir: ibriei'j eThe prefeiit feafoii «)f \ the. ye^ndtper-- mitting any military, ixiaiiaeuvx^esi- aiHl na-. turally inclining us more to refie6lions of a ferious nature, than the gay appearance of the fpring or fitmmer,"! fhaU again trefpafs -oniyoiir ^patience 't^vith 'forrie few obfervations on the elFecls of the intenie cold weather experienced in this country ; and as you have always appeared partial to my adding the Temarks of others, where I thought them more juil and beautiful than my own, I fhall allude to fome that ilrruck me on the following phcenomena.

■ I have already m.entionedtoyou that the froll: is let in, and among 'the many incon- to3ji23i , veniencies

l6a INTERIOR TRAVELS

veniencies which the inhabitants of this northern region fufFer from it, . none is more to be lamented than that of the ground being fo much frozen, as to make it impoHible to dig a grave for the inter- ment of thofe who die at this time ; their friends are obhged to keep them above ground till a thaw comes, when they re- turn the body to the duli from whence it came.

You will eafdy conceive, my dear friend, that the daily fight of fo mournful an ob- je61: as the bier of a departed hufband, muft inevitably lengthen out the forrow of

*' The new made Widow— Whilll bufy meddling Memory, In barbarous fucceffion, mufters up The paft endearments of their fofter hours, Tenapious of its theme.'-*

To relatives, who often think it a reli- gious duty to mourn the departed, fuch

fcenes,

THROUGH AMERICA. l6l

fcenes, by a protrafted forrow, often draw life to its utmoft verge, and at the funeral they are fcarce more alive than the corpfe they bury. To thofe who, without feeling a lofs, are yet led to contemplate, it often fuggeits the idea of Arbuthnot,

'* What am I ? how produc'd ? and for what end ? Whence drew I being ? to what period tend?

I think you would hardly forgive me, were I not to relate to you the very (Irange manner in which thefe thoughts affeft the German foldiers of our army. - I know not whether to call it fympathy, or by any other name, but it flrongly evinces the connexion exifting between the body and mind.

The Germans, to the number of twenty

or thirty at a time, will in their converfa-

tions relate to each other, that they are fure

they fliall not live to fee home again, and are

Vol. I. M certain

l62 INTERIOR TRAVELS)

certain that they fliall very foon die : would you believe it, after this they mope and pine about, haunted with the idea, that

*' Nor wives, nor children, fhall they more behold. Nor friends, nor facred home."

Nor can any medicine or advice you can give them divert this fettled fuperftition, v/hich they as farely die martyrs to, as ever it infefts them. Thus it is that men, who have faced the dangers of battle and of fhipwreck without fear (for they are certainly as brave as any foldiers in the world), are taken off, a fcore at a time, by a mere phantom of their own brain. This is a circumftance well known to every one in the army.

In cafe of any deceafe in the family of a Canadian, the corpfe is depofited in fome private chamber, but in our general hof- pital there is a long room appropriated for

that-

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 63

that purpofe. The fuperintendant of this room, an apothecary, being a man poflelled of whimfical ideas, and a turn for the ludicrous, had placed the dead bodies of thefe poor Germans in various poftures, fome kneeling with books in their hands, others fitting down with pipes in their mouths, many {landing ere£t againfl the wail, and as they have their cloaths on, you fcarcely at hrft imagine they are dead -, but upon a nearer approach, v/hat with their long muilaches, which are put in form, and their ghaftly countenance, you cannot picture to yourfelf any thing {o horrible, yet at the fame time fo truly laughable and ridiculous.

After what I have related, you will moll probably agree with me, that the conftitu- tion of England has not unwifely declared apothecaries and furgeons incapable of compofing a jury upon trials for capital M 2 odences

1 64 INTERIOR TRAVELS

offences, though it excludes fome few of them who do honor to the profefTion, by their gentlenefs and humanity : yet I am fearful the major part of them would not join in the warmth that is fo frequently experienced, in the generous and noble burfts of joy that overwhelms the order of our courts of juftice, when unprotefted innocence efcapes the arbitrary and re- vengeful profecution of malice and power. I have heard furgeons, as an excufe for the llrange want of feeling either brought on by the daily vilitation of ficknefs and pain, or which they poilefs from the apathy of their nature, fay, that v/ere they to feel much on the occafion, it would difable them from doing their duty. Strange argument this! and as contradictory to found fenfe as true philofophy, which might teach them gentlenefs in the manner, and firmnefs in the execution. Foi' my own part, fuch is the fituation of my mind, when I am indifpofed, that I have fancied

the

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 65

the afFecSlionate " how do ye" of the fui- geon and apothecary, has done me as much good as their drugs, or the performance of an operation in phlebotomy. Can any one conceive it proper, when a youth of iixteen has broke a leg, that the furgeon, while in doubt on the firfl vifit, fhould, in the prefence of his patient, refufe to fearch whether a fra6lure had a6lually happened, becaufe he would make fuch a roaring and a noife that he fiould 7iot get it out of his head for a fortnight, and though the lad with fpirit afTured him, that thofe who were prefent had not feen him flied a tear ; the ■ furgeon, however, did not make the expe- riment, though I believe for a much better reafon than he gave, v/hich v/as that the leg was much fwelled. Thus did a furgeon, while I v\^as in England, treat our coufui B — , lowering his fpirits, leaving him three or four days in fufpence, whether his leg

was broken or not, merely to lliew how M 3 coolly

l66 INTERIOR TRAVELS

coolly he could talk on a fubjecl like that before him. Had he, inllead of this un- feeling excufe, but tenderly alTured his patient, that it would put him to more pain to make the fearch then, than at a future time, I fliould have fuppofed it vi^ould have made his mind more eafy, and been the means of preventing the accefs of a fever, aiv^ays to be feared on thefe occa- lions.

In the hofpitals, perhaps the multipli- city of cafes may plead an excufe for little ceremony, but in private pra6lice, where they are well paid, thus wantonly to wound the feelings of thofe who are but in ill fpirits, cannot add either to their credit or pra6lice-

You will long ere this wonder how I have ftrayed from the wild fcenes that fur- round me, to laili the hardened profefibrs

of

THROUGH AMERICA* 1 67

of the Efculapian art, but you too well know that fuch things do exift, not to par- don my deviation. I fliall therefore con- clude with my fnicere wifhes that you may never have the misfortune to fall into their liands, and remain

Yours, Sec.

M4 LET-

l68 INTERIOR TRAVELS

LETTER XVI.

Montreal^ fehruary Z'jth, IJJJc

MY DEAR FRIENDj

A S my lail was liable to the infpe6lion •^ ^ of the enemy, I been have reftrained from informing you of many things that it would otherwife have communicated. I embrace, therefore, the opportunity of an officer going to Quebec, in order that you may receive this by the firft fhip that fails for England.

Since my laft I have been again to St, John's, where, notwithflanding the feveri- ty of the weather, the artificers and iliip-

w rights

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 69

Wrights are all bufily employed. We have railed upon the Lakes, in addition to the force of lafl fummer, a curious vefTel, cal- led a Radeaux, which formerly belonged to the French, and was funk by the Ameri- cans near this place : it is a caftle of itfelf, of a monftrous conftru6lure, and will hold a great number of men ; flie is in- tended to convey the heavy artillery acrofs the Lakes. From the account, indeed, that we have received from fome deferters, the Amicricans do not intend to difpute them, but wait our arrival at Ticonderoga.

The garrifon at St. John's has been kept very alert mofl of the winter, as feve- ral parties of the enemy have come acrofs the Lake upon fleighs, and having hovered about the woods, twice attacked the block- houfe on the oppofite fhore, their views, no doubt, were of deftroying our fleet; but to render the fhips more fecure, the ice has been cut away for feveral yards

round

170 INTERIOR TRAVELS

round them, to pre-^^nt their being f^t fire to.

As I returned from St. John's along the river, my attention v^as iiiddenly caught hj an objecl well calculated to have exer- cifed tlie feelings, and employed the pen of a Sterne. '

When the river freezes over, the Cana- dians cut a fquare hole in the ice, for the cattle to drink out of. I faw a drove of ilieep furrounding one of thefe holes : the whole flock looked moil piteouily, and bleated with fo mournful a lamentation, as w^ould have pierced a heart of ftone ; one of them feemed infinitely more agitated than the reft, and exhibited feelings that would have done honor to the moil tender fenfibility. Curiofity, concern, or what you will, led me inflantly to the mouth of the hole, where a poor little lamb, not four days old, urged by extreme thirfi, had

fallen

THROUGH AMERICA. IJl

fallen in • it was flruggling for life, and lent forth fnch diilrcfsfal cries ! — my God, how my pulfe beat, and my bread was. full, even to burfting! — how often did it get its little feet on flakes that feemed to promife it fupport, and as often it Dipt back again into the water , now it feemed by inelfec- tual exertions, anxious for life, and now hopelefs and defpairing, lay inanimate 3 — it was fome time before I could extricate it ; do me juftice, and guefs my feelings till I had eire6lually faved its life. I took it up in my arms, and the whole flock follow^ed me to the farm houfe. Todefcribe the mother's folicitudc, and the joy at finding it fafe, is impofhble ; language can never betray what the imagination itfelf can fcarcely paint. You v/ho are poffefl'cd of fympathy, and a tender regard for the whole creation, which is perhaps the greatell or- nament of humian nature, will eafi]y believe the infinite pleafure this little office of hu- manity afforded me.

This

172 INTERIOR TRAVELS

This is one of the many things in v/hich the mind might be apt to arraign the wif- dom of Providence, why nature fhould give birth to fuch tender creatures, at fo rigorous a feafon of the year, v^dien to all appearance they require the utmoft warmth to bring them to perfection.

A few days fnice I wTnt to Vcrchere^ to feefome officers of the 24th regiment, which village is extremely pleafant, commanding a very extenfive view both ways of the river, with a profpect of this city. It derives its name from a circumftance, wherein it is proved that the fair fex, upon em.er- gencies, pofTefs a courage equal, if not fu- perior to ours. In the year 1690, when this province was in a continual ilate of warfare with tlie Indians, and the inha- bitants were oblisred to re fide in forts, it happened that a Madame de Verchere v/as left alone in the fort, whilft the refl of the people were at work in the fields ; a fmall

party

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 73

party of Indians gaining this intelligence, were determined to enter the fort, plunder it, and take her prifoner ; Madame de Ver^ chere^ however, perceiving them approach in a pofture for fcaling the palifado, fired fome mufquet fhot, and drove them to a diftance^ they inflantly returned, and were again repulfed, ailoniflied, you may be fure, fince they could only difcover a woman, who appeared as undifmayed as if fhe had been furrounded with a nume- rous garrifon. The Indians knowing the place was unprovided with any other de- fence, made feveral attempts, and were always repulfed by the lady, who defended herfelf in the fort for near four hours, with a valor and prefence of mind which v/ouldhave done honor to an old warrior : they were at length compelled to retire entirely, as the inhabitants of the fort (who always went out to labor with their mufquets, in cafe of an attack) Vv-ere returning, and greatly fuperior in number to the Indians. This

was

174 INTERIOR TRAVELS

was not the only inilance of this lady's courage, for about two years after, a party of the fame Indians, but much more nu- merous, furprized and took prifoners the men, when at workj a little girl happened to make her efcape, who, running into the fort acquainted Madame de Verchere of what had happened. Shortly after the Indians appeared before the fort, leading the men captive. There was not a foul left in it, befides a young foldier and a number of women, who raifed mofl lament- able cries at the fght of their hufbands being led prifoners. \ri the midft of this, Madame de Verchere loft neither her courage nor prefence of mind, for after locking up the wom.en, that their groans and weeping might not infpire the Indians with addi- tional courage, and aiTaming the habili- ments of a foidier, fhe iired a piece of can- non and feveral mufquet fliot, fhev/ing her- felf with her foldier, fometimes in one re- doubt and fometimes in another, always

firing

THROUGH AMERICA. I75

firing vipon the approach of the Indians to the breaft-work, who did not make a fierce aflauh, as by her llratagem they fuppofed there were many men in the garrifon. For- tunately for the lady, flie had not long to remain in this difagreeable ftate, for the Chevalier de Crifafy who \^''as Governor of a fmall fort at Chamblee, upon hearing the firing of cannon, came to the fuccour of the place, and that fo fuddenly, that the Indians were obliged to make a very preci- pitate retreat, leaving their prifoners be- hind them.

This remarkable lady lived to a good old age, and died in Normandy, where there is a monument erefted to her, with thefe two fmgular inftances of her fortitude and bravery.

One would imagine that this fpot of Ver- chere was deiiined for the trial of fortitude and bravery in tlie fair fex, to vvhich I

mii^hi

176 INTERIOR TRAVELS

might add conjugal affeftion. At this time a lady refides here, noble by birth, in whom is united all the foftnefs and deli- cacy of her fex, ever accuftomed to thofe elegancies and refined enjoyments v/hich are attendant upon high rank and fortune : fhe has forfaken all the pleafures of the gay and fafhionable world, to accompany her hufband to the wild forefls of Canada^ already travelled a vail extent of country, in different extremities of feafon, and with difficulties that an European will not eafily conceive. Such inflances of connubial at- tachment, in the levity of the prefent day, are rarely to be met with ; but that fuch characters do exifl, and that the pleafures and gaieties of the beau vionde have not al- together vanquifhed the focial virtues, is to be' inflanced in that pattern of her fex. Lady Harriet Ackland, who has not only encoun- tered the hardfhips already defcribed, but upon joining the army, in addition to her former fatigues, had to attend her hufband

upon

THROUGH AMERICA, 177

upon his fick bed, in a miferable hut at ChamhUe. A mind Hke hers, animated by love and afFe6lion, is alone capable of encountering fuch hardfhips.

General Phillips commands this garri- fon, and is much efteemed by the officers; of the army 3 he gives them as little trouble as poflible, but will have them perform their duty, and feldom miiTes coming upon the parade in a morning. The following anecdote will give you a trait of his cha- racter, and fliew you the method he has of gaining the efleem of the officers :

One evening feveral young officers of the artillery having made a little too free with " the Tufcan grape, and being high in blood," went to the houfe of a Canadian, the father of three very pretty daughters : it happened the young ladies were at home, and as they liad frequently given fome little encouragement to the officers, thefe young

Vol. I. N men

178 INTERIOR TRAVELS

men thought themfelves warranted in tak- ing a few liberties with them ; but, as the wine had deprived them of all ideas of re- ftraint, they proceeded farther than the rules of decency or delicacy allow of, or than I chufe to relate. In the midft of this fcene the father arrived, whofe appearance added greatly to the confufion, and the old gentleman making a general alarm and outcry, the officers were obliged to de-- camp.

The next morning a formal complaint was made to General Phillips, by the father of the young ladies, who faid that if he was not immediately redreffed, he would fet off for Quebec, and lay his complaint before General Carleton, at the fame time informing him who had been the aggrefTors, adding, with fome warmth, ^'// etoit biefi certain que ce bon General lui re?idroit jtij- tice.

The

THROUGH AMERICA. I79

The General profefied himfelf extremely forry that fach a difgrace ftiould have fallen upon the officers of that garrifon, and that he fhould, for his own fake, render him all the juflice in his power, in order to wipe off fuch a fligma from his own corps, which pacified the Canadian,

The next day being the General's levee, thofe officers, who were now become con- fcious of their imprudent behaviour, did not abfent themfelves, leafl: it fhould argue guilt. After the General had made his bow of retirement to the levee, he defired that the officers of the artillery would re- main, and the reft of the company being departed, he addreHed them in the follow- ing manner :

" Gentlemen, I have had a very heavy

" complaint made to me by one of the in-

" habitants, of fome of the officers of the

" artillery, and cannot but fay I f;:el it

N 2 " more

l8o INTERIOR TRAVELS

" more forcibly, as commanding that corps " — and of fuch a nature too — Gallantry " has ever marked the foldier's chara6ter, " and I could allow you to ufe every per- " fuafive argument that lays in your power, " but for Heaven's fake, don't ufe violence, " that is beneath a man ! — For my ov/n " part, I do not know who has been guilty *' of fuch condu6l, nor can I form the " leafl: idea of the perfon, unlefs it was " Capt. H — , (pointing to an old and in- " firm officer) I am fure it could not be " any of the young gentlemen, certainly " their perfons and addrefs would have " enfured them fuccefs. When you folicit " the fair, violence becomes unneceiTary. " I neither know who the officers were, " nor do I wi(h to be informed j but let " me advife them to purfue different means, " when they next addrefs the ladies, as " they may reft affiired tliofe they have " adopted will never fucceed. I only defire " that I may never hear of any more fiich

com-

THROUGH AMERICA. l8l

' complaints, nor need I fuggeft to thofe gentlemen who are confcious of having " been concerned in this aftair, that it is " compatible with their characters, to " make every fatisfaftion and apology for " their conduct, to the father of the young " ladies."

I need not obferve, that thofe who had been the caufe of this handfome reprirnand of the General's, immediately went and made the required apology. Thus, by the natural politenefs and addrefs of Ge- neral Philhps, ended a bufmefs, which, under the cognizance of a more auftere commander, might have been rendered fatal to the chara6lers and fortunes of thofe who had erred only in the moment of ine- briation.

Moft of the inhabitants have large holes

dug in their cellars, which they fill with

ice, and thofe wlio have them are now

N 3 laying

lS2 INTERIOR TRAVELS

laying it in for the fummer. I am in- formed the heat is equally as predominant as the cold is at prefent, and were it not for the ice cellars, they could not keep their provifions fweet a day. At this feafon of the year, the inhabitants have very little trouble in going to market, having only the article of eggs and butter to purchafe, for as foon as the froft fets in, they gene- rally purchafe what provifions they think will ferve them till it breaks up, not only flefli and fowl, but even fiih, for they make holes in the ice, and let down nets five or fix fathom long, which feldom are drawn up empty, and thefe articles, when brought for fale, are frozen as hard as a flone j the provifions being laid in fo long before they have occajfion to ufe them, are always tender. When they want to drefs any thing, it is put into a pail of cold water before the fire, otherwife the water would foon be congealed; in about an

hour?

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 83

hour, wliatever kind of provifion is put in thaws, and becomes fit for ufe.

The lower clafs of Canadians are exceed- ingly infolent, and infult the officers upon every occafion j their behaviour would be infufferable, did they not now and then get feverely chaftifed. Was I induced to hazard an opinion as to the caufe of this, I fliould attribute it to the very great in- dulgence fhewn to them by General Carle- ton ; they imagine it is only to lay their complaints, however abfurd, before him, and be redreffed, according to the fbory they tell him. The following is the bell fpecimen I can give you, in confirmation of my afTertion :

As Colonel Carleton was driving his cariole, with a lady in it, upon the ice, a Canadian drove his Heigh defignedly againfl; the Colonel's cariole, by which it was overfet and much damaged : upon this the N 4 Colonel

1^4 INTERIOR TRAVELS

Colonel gave him a moft fevere horfe- whipping, v^hich the Canadian bore very patiently, faying, with a flight Ihrug, Fouettez done Monjteur, jufques a ce que vous foyez fatigue, mats je ^oous ajjure je men J>laindrai an General Carleton. The Colo- nel then encreafed his flagellation, telling him at the fame time, 'Et quand vous vous plaindrez an General, (^yez la bonte de V in- former en meme terns, que ceji fonfrere qui 'vom afouette. The Canadian hearing this, and prefuming he fhould then obtain no redrefs, began to afk pardon, became very fubmiffive, and was glad to make the bell of his efcape, by (linking away and drawling out, ^lefl eut fu que cetoit k fxere du bo:z General, il nauroit fas fait cela pour tout au monde.

This little anecdote, v/hile it convinces you what great lengths thefe plebeians go, when they imagine themfelves protefted, v^ill afford you an example of that mean-

nefs

THROUGH AMERICA. 185

nefs ever attendant upon vulgar and bafe minds, when a proper chaftifement is be- llowed upon them, for fuch inftances of their audacity.

I am juft informed there is an opportu- nity of fending letters to Quebec, from whence this will foon reach you, with my fnicere wiflies for your health and happi- nefs. I remain.

Yours, &c.

LET-

l86 'INTERIOR TRAVELS

LETTER XVII.

Montreal, Jpril 6th, I'J'J'J. MY DEAR FRIEND,

A S we are now in daily hopes of the

froft's- breaking up, and every one is

anxious and impatient to hear from his

friends, do not let me meet with a difap-

pointment.

Being defirous to vifit every place worthy of notice, I went to Chamblce, where are the remains of a fort, formerly built by by the French, for what purpofe they are the beft judges : it is faid their intention was to prevent an army entering Canada.

It

THROUGH AMERICA. 187

It is fo fituated, that an army can march by La Praire and La Chine, take Montreal^ and then turn their whole force againft the fort, which would be thus cut off from any rehef. This has been clearly evinced this war, when General Prefcott, with fe- veral companies, were taken prifoners in it.

The fort is built of ftone, of a regular fquare, with four bailions at each angle, without any out-works, and is fituated a few miles from the mountains which I have already defcribed j from its fituation I can never fuppofe it othervv^ife than intended as a magazine for ftores and provifions to fupply St. John's.

About three miles from the fort are the rapids, which prevent fhipping going up to St. John's J there is a fav/-mill there, and it being the firft of the kind I ever faw, I was particular in my examination of it.

After

l88 INTERIOR TRAVELS

After the owner had given me every necef- fary information, I alked him which Go- vernment he preferred, when he exclaimed. Oh I Monjieur^ il ny a point de cojjjparaifotiy VAnglois VAnglois ! and then related a cir- cumflance, which no doubt you will fay carried a powerful reafon for the poor old man's giving us the preference, and affords another proof how much the Canadians were oppreffed by the French.

There was a cuftom, which is continued for tlie repair of roads, tranfporting pro- vifions, and other fervices for Government, called a corvee ; it is in the breail: of the Captains of the Militia to nominate fuch a number of inhabitants to go with horfes and carts upon that duty.

At the time Lord Amheril: was expe6led to enter Canada, acrofs Lake Champlain^ the French were continually fending fup- plies of ammunition and provifions to

Cham-

THROUGH AMERICA. 1 89

ChambUe and St. John's, and the inhabi- tants, as well as their cattle, were almoft worked and harrafled to death, by the op- preffion and tyranny of the Captains of Mihtia.

Before the campaign commenced, Gene- ral Montcalm went to St. John's and Klhamhlce^ to fee that thofe garrifons were in a perfeft flate of defence, when the poor peafants afiembled in a body round him, and fell on their knees to tell their grievances. The man who owned the faw- mill told the General he was willing to ferve le Grand Monarqtie, but he had been much opprelledj that his harveil and plan- tation had been neglected, and his family almoft rained and ftarving ; and, to add to his misfortunes, que le deux feids chroaiix qzdhtirejloient etotent mo-rts de fatigue la veil lei to which the General, inftead of comfort- ing and redrelTing the poor old man, with a very flern look, and at the fame

time

igO INTERIOR TRAVELS

time twirling his croi'x de St. Lcuzs, replied, Mais votis en avez les peauxy ceji beaucouf, ceji beaucoup !

Among the various amufements we en- joyed while away this long winter, I forgot to mention that Ikating is one, which thofe who are fond of that diverfion are amply indulged in, there being fuch a conftancy and large extent of ice. There are feveral officers in the regiment, who being exceed- ing fond of it, have inllituted a fkating club, to promote diverfion and convivia- lity.

The Canadians fkate in the manner of the Dutch, and exceedingly fafb, but the Indians dart along like lightning. Some years fmce, for a confiderable wager, three Indians fet off from this place at day light, and before dark arrived at Quebec, which is 60 leagues ; their fatigue, however, was fo great, that two expired fliortly after

their

THROUGH AMERICA. I9I

their arrival, and the third did not furvive above a v^eek.

In this country there is no fpring nor autumn, and as the froft is daily expelled to break, the troops are kept in continual exercife. General Carleton is come to re- view the different regiments ; but the fnow is fo deep upon the ground, they are exer- cifed and to be reviewed on the ice, which you would naturally think extremely dan- gerous, and that the men would flip and do one another mifchief with their bayo- nets 5 but fuch is the power of the fun at this time, that during the day it thaws the furface, which freezing again at night, forms a kind of fmall ice, affording a fteady footing, added to which, all the ice oppofite the city is covered with loofe ftraws blown from the dung. The foil being fo extremely prolific, they have no occaiion for manure, and therefore bring

it

192 INTERIOR TRAVELS

it in fleighs upon the icCj to be carried away when it breaks up.

There are many unpleafant duties at- tending an officer, but none more fo than fitting upon a court-martial. A few days ago, being upon that duty, I felt myfelf much diftreifed, as being the junior officer, and of courfe the firft to pafs fentence, but was foon releafed from that painful tafk,. the culprit efcaping a punifliment, by his blunt oddity. The crime for which he was tried, and for which he had been twice punifhed before, was that of drunkennefs and diforderly behaviour, which being upon this occafion clearly proved, he was afked by the Prefident what he had to fay in his defence. He replied, " Oh ! and plaife " your Honors, I have nothing to fay, but " to fave your Honors and the Court any • ' further trouble, you may fet me down two " hundred, I'm fure your Honors will think " that enough." The droll and fimple man- ner

THROUGH AMERICA. I93

ner in which the fellow fpoke, accompanied with his dialed, occafioned a fmile upon every one prefent. After he was ordered to withdraw, the Court were of opinion, that as the man was in other refpe6t:s a good foldier; his whimfical manner fhould in this inftance fave him a punifhment j when, being called in, and receiving a fevere reprimand from the Prefident, and his promifmg never to be guilty of the like again, he was difmilTed. After thanking the Court for their lenity, he faid, " Since " as your Honors have been fo good to me, " I'll keg myfelf for fix months, diredly I " get home." As you will not eafily com- prehend the word keg^ or how it can be ap- plied in this inllance, I will explain it to you : it is a cant word that the foldiers have among them, when they wifh to re- frain from liquors, they take an oath that for fuch a limited time they will not touch any fpirits whatever, and if they are ftrongly addicted to liquor, not hingcan Vol. I. O tempt

194 INTERIOR TRAVELS

tempt them to tafle any. Perhaps you will fay, it would not be amifs if the offi- cers fometimes followed their example.

It is incredible to think what a difference a few